Tako Tomodachi

Left: Gan-Chan teaches Jo how to honor Mai's late Grandmother with a prayer and the burning of incense.

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Good morning Tokyo!

First some updates.

Lost In Translation: Top Janglish Quotes:

(1)

The backdrop: All week we had been looking forward to going to Mai's house for a traditional Japanese dinner, sleepover, and breakfast. On Saturday night we receive the following email from Mai:

Tomorrow, I prepare your roomwears! You don't have to bring them. I will take pleasure your visiting very much!! From MAI

I read the email. I thought about it for a moment. I couldn't come up with a translation for roomwears, and I started to wonder. Is there some traditional item or clothing that Japanese have that we don't have in the US ? It sure seemed possible. I called Jo over to take a look at the email. She read it and looked up at me just as perplexed. We laughed a little, and I decided to forward the email to Sawa for an expert translation and some etiquette advice.

Ten minutes later I get a phone call from Sawa. I think there is a little laughter in her voice, but I'm not positive. She tells me, "roomwears means pajamas." I say, "OK, and thanks for your help . "

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The next day at practice I find out Sawa didn't know what roomwears was either, and that's because Mai and her mom looked up pajamas in the dictionary and the closest thing they could find was," roomwears ". Sawa had to call Mai to ask her what she meant. Then she called me with the answer. That's why she was laughing, and when Mai came over apologizing for using the word "roomwears", we all had a good laugh.

After, Sawa wished Jo and I luck on our Japanese sleepover and told us NOT to call her if we needed any help. Isn't she sweet!

(2)

"Wait, I have dictionary." Almost always accompanied by a hand gesture and some enthusiastic head nodding, this is Gan-Chan's tag line. We hear it many times a day, and thankfully because there are often conversations that can't be finished without a little outside help. Luckily, Gan-Chan always has her dictionary, and it's not just your standard dictionary either. It's actually the "mack-daddy" of all dictionaries.

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If you just looked at it, you would think it was a mini-computer with a soft carrying case. You can type words in both Japanese-romaji (roman alphabet - very necessary for Japanese beginners like us) and Japanese-characters (for the native speaker). It has audio capability complete with proper pronunciation for words, expressions, and whole sentences. The voice can speak in five different speeds, the slower speeds help with pronunciation, and the faster speeds help the listener get used to how a native speaker actually sounds. Needless to say, this dictionary has saved many conversations, and we love hearing Gan-Chan say, "Wait, I have dictionary."

(3)

What do the Japanese do on a sleepover? The same thing Americans do, of course. Eat dinner, hang out, and watch a movie. It was great (more about dinner and hanging out later). The movie was called Hula Girls, and it was a Japanese original with English subtitles for our benefit. The story was about a young girl growing up in a coal mining village, during a time when coal was becoming obselete. Men were being laid off from the mines. There were no other jobs in town, and everyone was in an uproar over what to do next. The main character skips school and defies her mother's wishes in order to train to be a hula dancer. The rest of the movie is about her struggle to to learn to dance and to bring Hawaii to the cold, coal mining town she grew up in.

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It was a great story, and the subtitles were awesome. Joanna and I used the subtitles to expand our Japanese vocabulary with some important words and sayings. For instance, Joanna's favorite expression, "Odoritai!" In English, "I want to dance! "When you can't communicate with the people around you, it really helps to have a sense of humor. Joanna often uses this expression at random, miss-timed moments, bringing on a roar of laughter. Another expression," Ikuzo! " , meaning, "Let's go!" Said with an exorbitant amount of enthusiasm, "Ikuzo!", can also bring down the house. A few other expressions we've found particularly useful:

"Inakamono" --- Country bumpkin.

"Iitaikoto ga arunara itteyo!" --- If you have a problem, say it to my face!

"Bakkajoyanaino!" --- Unbelievable!

(4)

Tako Tomodachis: The nickname for our group of four people that together have eight arms just like an octopus. Joanna and I started using the expression, "octopus party" (said with our best impression of a Japanese accent it sounds more like octopus pati) , to describe our time hanging out with Gan-Chan and Mai. They have been so helpful and kind to us, and we have a great time hanging out with them on our days off from soccer. They love practicing their English with us, and we love practicing our Japanese with them. We have a great friendship.

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This weekend on our sleepover at Mai's house, the expression evolved into, "tako tomodachis", which in Janglish means, "octopus friends". It is an affectionate term, and we use it often to convey that we appreciate them and they are special to us. It is funny all the different ways we have learned to communicate verbal and emotional messages with such a limited vocabulary.

The Sleepover:

Now that I've shared some of the funny moments with you, let me paint a more complete picture of our sleepover at Mai's house. After practice on Sunday (we were at the field for six full hours), the tako tomodachis headed to Mai's house (affectionately called, Mai Chome, same idea as Gan-Chan Chome from the previous blogs). As we entered her house we were given slippers to wear inside. We met Mai's parents in the living room and kitchen area, introducing ourselves in Japanese . We can't say much, but we were excited to be there, and we smiled and nodded a lot to show our enthusiasm.

Mai's mother, Okaasan, which is the Japanese word for mother, had been cooking all day in preparation for our visit. This was our first authentic Japanese dinner, complete with chopsticks, tatami floors, bento boxes, and Asahi (Japanese beer). It was a feast, and you have to excuse me because I don't remember the names of everything we ate. I will try to describe it anyway.

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We started with udon noodle salad with fresh seared tuna. Then we had fried and breaded shrimp, chicken, and squid; followed by seared eggplant with a distinctly Japanese taste; sesame flavored roots; potato, carrot, noodle, and beef brisket stew; soft tofu soup (impossible to pick up with chopsticks); and delicious sashimi on a bed of cabbage. I'm sure I am forgetting something. There was food everywhere and endless new things to try.

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Her mother didn't eat with us because she was too busy cooking and preparing the food in the kitchen. She would come into the room with a new dish, and together she, Mai and Gan-Chan would explain what it was. She would stay until we had our first bight. We would look up and say, "oishi", which means delicious, and then she would disappear back into the kitchen to get the next dish together. It was, hands down, the most extravagant and delicious meal we've had in Japan, and the company was incredible as usual.

Because Mai's father was sick he sat in the adjoining room, and only occasionally joined the conversation through Mai and her Mom. He often came to the edge of the room to take pictures, which he later printed for us as a gift to take home. After dinner Mai's Mom opened the presents we had brought from the US, and we all moved cheerily into the living room to eat desert, drink coffee, and watch Hula Girls.

As we relaxed in our "roomwears", watching the Japanese movie, occasionally laughing as we taught each other new Japanese and English expressions, I felt very at home in this foreign country. I am not looking forward to the end of our trip, and I'm becoming more and more aware that our time here is finite.

To FC Tokyoooo and beyond!

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First, a little background information: My sister, Sarah, just started law school this fall. It's a place known for sleepless nights and grueling academic work. The first year is supposed to be the hardest, and no one is said to enjoy it. I think the closest thing my sister has to a social life is a few short coffee breaks during the day, a minimally social study group at night, and the time she spends keeping in touch with her boyfriend back in Mexico. This might not appeal to you, or to me for that matter, but if you know my sister at all, then you know she's loving it, and she's already proving to be good at it too. Sarah's always been a very serious person. She loves school and works hard. She gives up all her free time for an endless list of selfless causes, and I think one day she really might save the world. That's Sarah now, but back in high school, she had more free time, and she filled it with an amazing group of wildly entertaining and fun-loving friends. There were about nine of them, and although they now live all across the globe, with no two people living in the same city, they still keep in touch. Being two years younger than my sister and her friends, I looked up to them. I watched them closely, and there is probably no one on this earth who thought they were cooler than I did. Always looking for a good time, they had a propensity for late nights and endless laughter. I admired their enthusiasm and zest for life, and I wanted to be just like them. Two years is no longer a big age gap, but I think I will always remember them with the awe of a little sister looking up. When I found out my sister's friend Olivia (half Japanese and half American) was coming to Japan for a one week vacation, I jumped at the chance to meet up with her across the planet. I hadn't seen Olivia in at least two years , but I remember her well for her adventurous spirit and excitable nature. I imagined all the endless fun we could have together, and I couldn't wait to see her. We exchanged a few emails and our Japanese phone numbers, but it wasn't long before I realized it wasn't going to be so easy to meet up with her. I play soccer all evening and into the night, and she goes out to see friends late at night and into the morning. We both sleep until lunchtime and then get up to do it all again. It made me wonder about all the fun I was missing while she was out making friends and dancing the night away. I guess I never grew up to be just like my sister or her friends. I chose my own path, and that is why I'm in Japan in the first place. I play soccer, and I'm here to learn from Sawa and her teammates . So, despite tempting invitations to fun clubs and dance parties, we settled on a plan to meet at the FC Tokyo game Saturday night. Having seen how enthusiastic the Beleza women's fans were, I was excited to meet the J-League fans at the FC Tokyo game. Neither FC Tokyo nor their fans left me disappointed. Beating Iwata 3-2 in injury time on a header goal from a late substitute, FC Tokyo did their part. Their fans went crazy, and so did I. From the first whistle, the game was back and forth, o-1, 1-1, 1-2, 2-2, and finally 3-2. The stands were electric with energy. The fans booed players when they passed back to the goalkeeper and when, under pressure from the other team, they turned the ball over. They heckled theIwata players when they fouled the home team, and they disagreed outwardly with the referee's calls against FC Tokyo. Although we were seated in a more tame section of the stands, we watched the tried and true FC Tokyo fans as they waved huge team banners, sported the jerseys of their favorite players, and cheered continuously until the game was well past over. It was a great game, and they had every right to be enthusiastic, or so we thought. Later, however, we found out that the game didn't even count for anything.FC Tokyo was already safely in 6th place and guaranteed a playoff bid. Iwata, On the other hand, was seeded below 8th place with no chance of making the playoffs. All that excitement and energy for a game that didn't even count! I wish we could bring some of those cheering, chanting, soccer enthusiasts back to the US. It would be great for the sport, and it's so much fun to be a part of when you're in the stands. You just can't help cheering with them. "FC Tokyoooooooo"

VIPeas

This is incredibly exciting ...... I was able to upload some video footage from the most recent Beleza game. It has absolutely nothing to do with what I am about to write and it is extremely out of place in our chronological order of blogs but this inaugural video has monumental implications. Not only will you be able to live our Tokyo adventure through our still words and pictures but now .... drum roll please .... streaming video. Woohooo!!!!

OK, now on with the show. Although it is Monday night here in Tokyo and we had a full 2 days of crazy Tokyo times, I am going to break blog common law and take you way back to Wednesday night because it is just too good not to.

The Scene: Saitama Arena, Tokyo. Wednesday, September 24th

The Players: Jo, Becca, Sawa, Tom, Roland, The Black Eyed Peas (also known as BEP's), and 20,000 screaming Japanese Black Eyed Pea fans.

The Backdrop: We were asked by Sawa to attend the concert the week before, and if you know Sawa, every invitation comes with very little pomp, circumstance and very little information. With that being said, we never really know exactly what we may be getting ourselves into. I will paint a picture....For example, what we think is an invitation to a simple birthday dinner is, in actuality, Rebecca and I severely under dressed as we meet many of Sawa's famous friends in a cool, hole in the wall bar in Rippongi while watching karaoke on a big screen into the late hours of the night (happened last week). Sawa is extremely modest and has more friends than we could ever keep track of, so, as a rule, when Sawa invites .... we just nod our heads yes. It would be a crime not to.

The Continued Backdrop (but we don't know all of this until after the night ..... and the information doesn't come from Sawa): We will be attending the concert with two of Sawa's friends, Tom and Roland. Tom has been in Japan for 20 years, has 80 successful soccer instruction schools, 15,000 students, and a plug on his own television show every morning around 7am. Roland, the tallest man in the stadium, has lived in Tokyo for 15 years working with a marketing company. Through their day jobs, both men are connected to Adidas and therefore connected to Sawa, one of Adidas' top female sponsored athletes.

The Show: We arrive at the concert around 5:30 pm. The concert starts promptly at 6:00 pm and there is no opening band (I love this about Japan). We meet Tom and Roland, two very nice individuals who hand us tickets to the club section (a pleasant surprise but not a huge surprise ... we are with Sawa) and also another green pass to go along with it. As we walk into the stadium past the crowded lines teeming with people, Tom and Roland non-chalantly mention that the passes are for backstage. Luckily, Rebecca and I are walking behind all of our companions so none of them witness both of our jaws drop to the floor when we hear the news that we would be wandering backstage after the show (once again a surprise but not a huge surprise ... we are with Sawa).

We reach our comfy seats in the club section ..... second level, first row, directly facing the stage. While the entire stadium is forced to stand to see the action, we are the masters of our domain, standing and sitting when we choose (mostly sitting ... the practices are so hard here .... we are usually exhausted and have to conserve energy for the next day).

The Black Eyed Peas put on an amazing show that includes all of their hits, psychedelic lights, detailed costumes with multiple changes, acrobatics, dancing, fergies, pumps, body shakes, lovely lady lumps, and the list goes on. The entire stadium is rocking and it truly makes you want to get out of your seat and join them. The audience hangs on their every word, their every beat, and their every mention of "Tokyo" (the BEP's speak no Japanese so the best you get is " Tokyo "... but it seems to work just fine).

Just when you thought the night couldn't get any better we feel the backstage passes burning holes in our pockets. With only a few songs left (their second encore at this point) we head down to the floor and park ourselves immediately next to the stage. It is a much different atmosphere and the sweat dripping off each fans forehead is every bit an indication of this. The BEP's are in their groove, performing their newest hit "Tonight's Gonna Be a Good Night" (please excuse me if I butchered the song name .... but that is essentially the chorus .... and now that I think about it, essentially the words to the entire song). Meanwhile, two famous Japanese boy band singers from the group SMAP (they are kind of a big deal), have seemed to find their way onto the stage . In what seems like a rock concert mixed with New Years Eve, we jump and dance to the music as streamers rain down around us, everyone thanks everyone for coming, random people are speaking into the microphone, and I swear that one of the Japanese boy band members is so drunk he almost falls over on stage ... so New Years Eve.

The concert ends for most but our excitement is only beginning. We make our way backstage to get a first hand look at the immensity of the set, its lights, and all the hard labor that goes into to taking it apart. The BEP's will be traveling to Malaysia after the show and that means that everything, and I mean everything, from the drum set to the Fergies pink high heels has to be packed and shipped within the next 3 hours. It is incredible. There are workers everywhere and as we make our way backstage we do our best to avoid tripping on wires or getting hit by falling debris.

We learn that Tom is best friends with the tour manager of the BEP's and that is how he was able to score such amazing tickets. We meet the manager, he hails from NY, and stare in amazement as dancers, band members, personal body guards , and legitimate rock stars walk all around us. Although we probably stick out like sore thumbs, we do our best to act as if we belong among them. Fergie .... no big deal .... we have Sawa =). After much schmoozing and attempts to sneak a peak into every room we decide that being a rock star or one of his or her groupies is hard work .... you sleep all day, party all night ..... umm. ... where do I sign up?

Additions to the CauSAWAnnabeher List:

1. See above ... no more explanation needed.

2. See above ... no more explanation needed.

Scenes for next blog:

FC Tokyo and J-League Men's Pro Soccer, American friends in Tokyo, Our first traditional Japanese sleep over, Massive Buddhas, Eating eyeballs, and much much more.

1, 2, 3...Sumo!

Week three has already been one for the books. Tuesday we had our first Sumo experience. It was fantastical! The Japanese are petite, well dressed, healthy looking people. Sumo wrestlers, on the other hand, stand more than six feet tall, wear thick thong, diaper-like uniforms, and are hugely overweight. The contrast is dramatic.

As in most cultures, if you are looking, you can often tell athletes apart from the rest of the population. Think of a basketball player, a football player, a volleyball player, a soccer player, a jockey, or a gymnast. Maybe he or she is an athlete in a sport you do not follow, and you might not know his name or face, but if you look closely enough you can often guess he is an athlete of some kind or another. Perhaps, his stature gives him away , or it is something more subtle, like the way he dresses, talks, or walks. Whatever it may be, for a Sumo wrestler the difference is unmistakable, and it only takes one quick glance to know him apart.

Like basketball players and football players, Sumo wrestlers are big. And although it is hard to miss them, it is their traditional clothing that truly sets them apart. Customary garb includes a traditional silk robe similar to, in my untrained opinion, a masculine version of the Japanese Kimono. It is intricate, exotic, and expensive. On their feet they wear flat wooden sandals that look archaic and difficult to walk in. Before fighting there is a welcoming ceremony, where the wrestlers, facing the crowd and standing shoulder to shoulder, form a circle to greet the audience, thank everyone for their support, and pay homage to the spirit of Sumo.

For this ceremony, they also have special clothes, wearing traditional silk wraps adorned with diamonds and jewels, costing as much as $ 25,000. Behind the scenes, each wrestler has a personal hair dresser to tie his long hair into an intricate knot on top of his head. When the wrestler is not fighting he remains in his "stable" with his "stable master". The stable master is responsible for training the wrestler, and his job includes physically abusing the fighter in training to make him tougher and again before a match to get him ready fight.

As in much of Japanese culture, their is a rich history and deep commitment to tradition. Sumo wrestling follows old tradition down to the very last detail. The matches are officiated closely, and they only last about ten seconds. There are more than sixty five ways to win or lose a match, with many techniques for throwing, charging, and slapping the opponent. Some wrestlers rely on size and strength, others are smaller and quicker, and still others are craftier, using the opponent's weight and mass against him.

It is hard to grasp everything that is happening. As quick as the match starts, it is over, and for the untrained eye this is not much time. Recognizing our own limitations, and having gotten sound advice from a friend, Joanna and I rented FM radios with commentary on each match in English. It also helped us pronounce the wrestler's names, which made it easier to pick favorites and cheer them on. Having borrowed a pair of binoculars, we could see the matches up close and ring-side despite our nose bleed seats and bird's eye view. This was both a good thing and a bad thing, because through the binoculars you could see everything. And, although we were very impressed by the strength of the wrestlers' big blows, we could not help noticing all the dimply behinds and massive bellies. It was an experience, and we enjoyed the spectacle as much as anything else.

Stayed tuned for week three, day two ..... Black Eyed and VIPeas.

The Best of the Best (Pictures)

Top Left: Sawa's friend contingent at her birthday party ... Andy's Pub, Roppongi, Tokyo

Top Right: Rebecca and me with Kelly Burton at the Balinese restaurant

Bottom Left: Sawa's picture and autograph at Andy's Pub

Bottom Right: Sawa's friend, Yoshi, singing karaoke at Andy's ... great voice!

The Best of the Best

Pictures of GanChan Chome (# 5 top memorable moment)

Whoa Tokyo! If only we had enough time in the day to blog about all of our experiences .... since we do need our beauty sleep, I am providing some much needed extra information to keep you completely in the Japanese loop.

Recent Memorable Moments:

(1.) Losing my metro card - I am an idiot. Thank god for Taejo who came rushing down as my knight in shining armor to save the day. He was able to explain the situation (it fell out of my pocket on the train), cancel the lost card, and order a replacement with all the on money on the previous card transferred over. It wasn't the end of the world but I am greatful for computers (I was logged in the system along with the value of my card) and native Japanese speakers.

(2.) Zoo animal charades - We have explained in previous blogs that as foreigners in Japan playing soccer we often feel like zoo animals. We have a captive audience that pokes, prods, examines, analyzes, and watches our every move. So, we found it quite ironic when Rebecca and I were acting out different animals at practice last week. In a effort to try to get our Japanese teammates to understand the English meaning of the word "animal", and therefore, answer the question of whether there was a zoo in Japan we took on the characteristics of our favorite animal friends. Our repertoire, to give some examples, consisted of elephants, monkeys, snakes, crabs, alligators, lions, birds, horses, and giraffes. As we acted out each with unique body motions and noises ( dependant upon the difficulty of the animal) our Japanese friends would laugh and yell out the appropriate Japanese term for the animal. It was a game that provided much entertainment, many laughs, and also many new words! Plus, a lot of creativity on our side .... a giraffe is tough.

(3.) Going Green - We had lunch with Kelly Burton, an eco-fashion guru that runs her own blog (check it out: http://www.magnifeco.com/). Hailing from Canada, Kelly is a good friend of my sister-in-law, and also the wife of one of the drummers for the Blue Man Group (currently touring in Tokyo). Kelly treated us to lunch at a Balinese restaurant and was, of course, in high eco-fashion. After a long and productive conversation we are much more aware of how many "green" aspects Tokyo embraces .. ... to name a few ..... a great public transportation system , elaborate recycling programs, dioxin capturing waste plants, environmentally friendly toilets, new "green space" building laws, and entire communities built upon construction waste (Odaiba beach). Also, thanks to Kelly, we have many more tips on our travels within Tokyo and throughout Japan. A great person to have on our side and we may even get to see the Blue Man Group while we are here. Not too shabby!

(4.) Karaoke - We both knew it was only a matter of time before we had our first experience. Although Rebecca nor I, graced the microphone, we were pleasantly surprised with the singing capabilities of the Japanese (OK, one of the singers had taken lessons but still ...). I promised myself that I would absolutely take the stage and sing my little American heart out before this entire experience is over, and if I am lucky, I hope to drag Becca up with me. So far she adamantly refuses but maybe, just maybe I can convince her (or many many beers can). Feel free to post any recommendations on song titles ..... they will be warmly received.

(5.) GanChan Chome - We had the pleasure of being invited to eat dinner at Eriko Arakawa's (aka GanChan) family restaurant in Narima, Tokyo. Run by her mother, father, and brother, this amazing ramen house has been around for 40 years and is very well known . Sitting in the back, corner booth adorned with Japanese Women's National Team and Beleza posters, we were treated to Japanese delights of gyoza (Japenese dumplings), ramen noodles in one of three bases (miso, soy, or salt), and beef curry (to this day the best food we have eaten in Japan). The tastes were incredible as was the service with her family often coming over to our table (usually with a piping hot, mouth watering dish in hand) to make sure our experience was one to remember. Extremely proud yet extremely humble, GanChans family created the meals by hand, and it was incredible to taste these authentic dishes.

Although her family does not speak English, we were still able to communicate our appreciation through broken Japanese and American gifts (thanks to Dr. Ann). With our bellies full we toured around their neighborhood (referred to as a chome in Japanese) noticing that GanChan was a local celebrity (national one too for that matter). As she pointed out the highlights of the small town, everyone waved to her, old and young, and it came as no surprise that she was an extremely popular part of this town (we then took the pleasure of naming the town after her).

With a personality every bit as large as her hair, GanChan is impossible not to like. Always smiling, she is a constant source of laughs and positivity. With a culture well-known for its reservations and quiet demeanor, GanChan is a refreshing change and now one of our best friends.

Lost in Translation: Top Janglish Quotes

1. "Go to hell" - Taejo's hysterical response to his interpretation of Rebecca and my comment that we would "follow him through the gates of hell". The latter comment was uttered when referring to our trust in Taejo to order for food us at Japanese restaurants.

Two. "Little Lucy likes lollipops" - The alliteration that helped Eriko Arakawa learn how to pronounce the letter "L" in high school.

Three. "Back line correspondence diagonal rear" - The literal interpretation of Beleza's instructional soccer film into English done for our benefit .... yep, didn't really help.

Four. "Sugoi" - The all encompassing Japanese phrase that means great, awesome, wonderful, sweet, cool, neat, good, wow, etc. All depending upon how and when it is said - staccato, bewilderment, etc. - Very useful word to know!

Five. "Maybe OK" - The polite Japanese way of saying "No". Ha.

Additions to the "cauSAWAnnabeher" list:

1. Sawa's birthday party at Andy's pub in Roppongi

- Her picture and autograph were on the wall

- Her friends consisted of two big time lawyers, an ex-professional rugby player (two World Cups with the Japanese National Team) and now a Japanese university rugby coach, a professional singer (married to the ex-professional rugby player), a famous TV broadcaster that is on twice a day, and a professional female snowboarder. Quite the crowd and very good looking!

When in Tokyo.

Left: Mai and Eriko take me and Jo to a traditional Japanese bath house. Below: Mai and Eriko help me order lunch from the Japanese menu on the vending machine. Left: Eriko and Mai show me and Jo how to use the rental lockers. Do as the Japanese do. That means, when your new Japanese teammates invite you to a Japanese bath house you say, "Mochiron!" Or, "Of course!", Which is exactly what we said. Before coming to Japan we heard about Japanese bath houses, and we read about Japanese bath houses, but nothing really prepared us for the real life bath house experience. What follows below is my best attempt to share this experience with you. However, if you really want to know what a Japanese bath house is like, you 'll have to fly to Japan and go to one yourself. I assure you there is nothing like it, and it is worth experiencing firsthand. Picture a place where you pay money to share bath water with complete strangers. Then imagine yourself spending hour after hour in the bath with these same complete strangers. For a foreigner, it's not so easy to imagine. I will try to help you. First you walk in and ditch your shoes in lockers by the door. Since it's your first time, you didn't think to bring a towel, so you rent one. You are hungry, so you hit the vending machines to buy a meal ticket . You pick out the food you like, put in your money, and out pops your meal ticket. You bring the ticket to the counter, hand it to the lady who enters your order and gives you a buzzer to alert you when your food is ready. You grab a seat at a table because you are not accustomed to sitting cross-legged for an extended period of time and decline the traditional Japanese style tables and cushions on the floor. After you eat you head to the locker room. You rent another locker and stow your clothes inside. It is the last time you will need them until you are ready to leave the bath house. Now you are completely naked. Everyone else around you is completely naked. You are unfamiliar with proper bath etiquette, so you follow your Japanese friends closely, doing everything they do. You walk into the main bathing room. You rinse off in an open shower. You look down uncomfortably because you have always thought of nudity as a private matter. You don't want to embarrass yourself or anyone else, and you are feeling very shy. When you finish showering and it is time to get into the baths, you have no choice but to look around. There are many baths to choose from and people are walking all around you. It is the first time you notice your surroundings. You can see baths in every shape and size. There are women of every age, young women and old women, mothers and grandmothers, teenagers and children. On the other side, you imagine the men are doing the same thing. I don't know if you're doing a good job putting yourself in my shoes, but I have to admit it takes some getting used to. I'm a shy person, and hanging out naked with friends and strangers alike is not something I ever imagined doing. At first I felt awkward and wanted to cover up. Then I felt silly and wanted to laugh. Finally, I forgot I was naked, forgot everyone else was naked, and walked freely from bath to bath. Since I didn't know if I would ever have another chance to go to a Japanese bath house again, I made sure to try every bath the house had to offer, and there were many. I tried tubs of piping hot water, pools of freezing cold water, standing jacuzzi baths with jets on all sides, and seats and beds made from marble slabs where you could sit or lie down as water washed by you. Outside, yes I said outside, there were baths surrounded by trees with rocks for sitting on and waterfalls splashing into the pool around you. Not to mention, there were hot houses and saunas with TVs. You can bathe and bake all you want, and that's just what we did. We spent an hour and an half walking from tub to steam room and back again, relaxing in one setting until we desired another, jumping into the cold tub to cool off after overheating in the steam room or hot tub. We laughed and chatted the whole time, resting our tired muscles, and exchanging information about our native language and culture. It was picturesque and a day I will never forget. I walked out of the bath house that day feeling a little more Japanese. Now that I've had time to reflect, I have to admit it was one of the most interesting and liberating experiences I've ever had, and what was completely normal for my Japanese friends was utterly unique for me. We Americans are such forward thinkers. We enjoy our social, political, and religious freedom. We are excited by the latest fashion trends and the next big thing on the market. I love being American. However, if you get the chance to take a step back in time to experience this age old Japanese tradition, I truly recommend it. There is nothing like a Japanese bath house, and it is worth skipping the latest movie, or putting off downloading the newest big hit from Katy Perry. I hope one day you will have a chance to experience it firsthand.

Surfing in Tokyo

Out of necessity, today's blog is going to be a reflection of our schedule this past week .... busy, rushed, all over the place, and long. We have done so much in so little time that it is hard to know where to begin. I will follow blog protocol and reflect upon our latest adventure that included a 7:00 am wake up call, our first Tokyo Couchsurfing * Experience, an attempt to see Sumo, a long journey to watch our first Verdy Beleza game, and dinner at a Izakaya in Ryogoku with 13Couchsurfers representing 6 different nations.

So, a lot to cover and once again not much time. The one thing I was absolutely certain of before coming to Japan was that I wanted to see a Sumo wrestling match. Well, I was in luck because there is a large tournament in Tokyo going on right now. The only problem is, I am not the only one who wants to be a spectator. We woke at 7:00 am yesterday to get to the stadium by 8:30 am to meet up with about 15 Couchsurfers to get the tickets for the day. Unfortunately, at this point, the two cheapest tickets were already sold out .... and since we are traveling on a budget, the next steep price was not one we were willing to pay.

Not all was lost, however, and what could have been a major disappointment actually turned out to our benefit. We had planned our Sumo day on a Monday, the typical day off for Beleza, But since it is currently a national holiday in Japan ( respect your elders day ... I love you Mom and Dad, Molly, and Peter), Beleza actually had a game on Monday instead of it's normal Sunday. With the Sumo plans already in place we thought we were going to have to miss the one opportunity to see Beleza play (all of their following games will be away games). With no Sumo, and tickets already secured for the next days matches, Rebecca and I jumped on the opportunity to surprise our fellow teammates and go to the game. It was fate.

We stopped first to grab breakfast and coffee with our newly made friends from all over the world .... France, Canada, Japan, United States, Greece, and Thailand ..... obviously we had plenty to talk about and luckily it was all in English. As this was going on, we began to make mental plans to journey to see Beleza, Mapping out our route, and creating an ETD.

At around 11:30 am we jetted off to the "home" game that started at 1pm. I put "home" in quotes because a home game is anything but, and from what we had heard it would take us a LONG time to get there (our fellow Couchsurfers were up for coming and then bailed once they saw how far it was). Although at times we had our doubts if we would ever make it (and if we did the game could be over), we pushed on with fortitude, letting nothing stand in our way. After asking six nice Japanese travelers desperately for help, about an hour and a half train ride on the Shohan Shinjuku line (one we had never heard of at that time) and a ten minute taxi ride to the stadium, we had reached our destination.

As we stood staring at the intimidating gates, fate was again on our side. We immediately were approached by a friend of our teammate who was sent out with the mission to find the two wandering Americans that were rumored to be coming to the game. With a personal escort we finally arrive, just before halftime, to loud cheers and a score of Good Guys (Beleza) 1 and Bad Guys 0.

As we were met by smiling fans (we even signed a few autographs), excited teammates, and constant stares (we often feel like zoo animals here), we both felt that the long journey was every bit worth it. The loud cheers of Beleza's raucous fans made us immediately envious of the support that surrounds the team. With a legitimate "cheer leader", matching garb, loud body shaking drums, and coordinated cheers, the Beleza fan section is one we would love to take back with us to the States. They can be heard from miles away as positive chants, claps, and songs flow from their music.

Ninety two minutes later and a final score of 2-0 we are greeted by our teammates with open arms. We are thrilled to share in the joy of victory and even more thrilled with the appreciation of our perseverance (to them it was quite impressive that we made it that far). The day deemed a success, we travel back to Tokyo with our tired yet happy teammates in an effort to meet up with the Couchsurfers we left behind.

Prior to our departure for the game, dinner was planned for an Izakaya (an interactive restaurant with a Sumo pit in the middle where Japanese singers perform for the eating audience) immediately next to the Sumo stadium. The reunion with our new eclectic group of friends provided us with a much needed boost of energy. The group consisted of Japan locals, Japan visitors, teachers, nomad travelers, athletes, salary men, students, and more. Over beer, rice, salad, sushi, and numerous other amazing dishes we all ate, drank, and shared stories of past experiences. We spoke about the greatness of Tokyo, the nuances of Japanese culture, and upcoming events we could all enjoy together. We now have friends to visit all over Japan, both North and South that we plan on staying with on our extended travels after our training season. It was an incredible event that once again reinforced my love for Couchsurfing and provided Rebecca her first but not last real taste of this traveling community.

At about 9pm we headed back home to be greeted by Taejo and resigned to our futons not much later. It was a day of victory, on many accounts, and we looked forward to our adventures of the next ........ TO SUMO WE GO !!!!!!!!!

Much, much more to come .......

Scenes for next blog:

1. Top Quotes

2. Memorable Moments

3. Japanese Bathhouses

4. GanChan Chome

5. Guest appearances

6. Additions to cauSAWAnnabeher

*Couchsurfing: An online traveling community similar to facebook that consists of individuals that seek world wide authentic experiences through culture exchange. A website that has legitimately changed my life and provided some of the most memorable moments of my life in several different countries around the world .

Heart of a Champion

What does Japanese soccer practice look like? It's hard to explain. We do something different every day. We play possession. We play small-sided. We have shooting practice. We do everything we do in the US, yet somehow, it's all different. There are rules, boundaries, restrictions, and multiple ways to score goals. There is something to think about at all times, but one thing there isn't - touch restrictions. It's always unlimited touches, what they call "free". Creative freedom is encouraged and rewarded. Aggressive defense is constant. A player is always under pressure from multiple defenders at the same time. When she can escape the pressure, she is applauded. As a result, rushing with the ball, forced passes, and predictability are rarities. In their own words: craft, out-maneuvering, and explosion are three keys to Japanese style soccer. The players here are also the most industrious and hard working I've ever seen. Standing around and laziness are non-existent. No one takes a day off. This attitude is reflected in the way they train. For instance, practice doesn't officially start until 6:30 pm, but everyone is on the field preparing and warming up by 6:00. Many of the younger players come early to join the youth practice at 5:15, jumping straight into our practice directly afterward. Training sessions are scheduled to end at 8:00 pm, but that has only happened once since I've been here. Even when the coach, Mr. Hoshikawa, blows his whistle and practice is over, it's still not over. Each player has individual goals, and after practice is her time to work on them. Extra training is not mandatory or monitored, but everyone subscribes to it. You will find players working on everything from shooting, passing, and juggling, to fitness, long balls, and any other skill you can think of. Only after each player finishes her individual training does she head to the locker room for a shower and medical treatment. The last player rarely walks off the field before 9:00 pm. It is no wonder Japanese players exhibit such a high level of mastery. Their work is never done. September 18th. Friday was not a typical practice, but it wasn't all that different either. I finally walked off the field around 8:45, and that's only because we were in a rush. Having warmed up at 6:00pm, watched film at 6:30, practiced at 7:15, and scrimmaged at 8:00, we were now rushing to catch the bus, to catch the train, to catch some of Sawa's friends in the international district called Roppongi. Otherwise, we may have been on the field for another half an hour as is customary. Once a week, in the middle of every week, the team starts practice by watching film from the game the week before. The first week, Jo and I sat in on the meeting. The coach doesn't speak much English, so all coaching points were made in Japanese. All written materials and subtitles were in Japanese. Needless to say, we didn't understand much. This week, Mr. Hoshikawa added English subtitles to help us learn what the team was learning. We were very grateful. There was just problem... Japanese doesn't translate directly to English, and the opposite is also true. So, as the film played, and English subtitles flashed across the screen we looked at each other perplexed. It was still like we were reading another language. Words were in the reverse order, verbs coming at the very end of the sentence, confusing in our minds who was taking what action and when. The choice of words was like none I've ever heard used in soccer before. We were still completely lost. Each time the English flashed across the screen we could do nothing but laugh. We were rendered incompetent in our own language. After the film session we went to practice and went back to everything being in Japanese. We were again lost, but it was comforting to be lost in a foreign language and not our own. As is customary on film days, practice ends with a 45 minute scrimmage. The team was divided into an 'A' and 'B' team. The 'A' team, the starting 11 for Beleza, consisted of: Washington Freedom star Homare Sawa, Japanese international Shinobu Ohno (drafted to the Boston Breakers, 2009), five other current Japanese national team players (Kinga, Naga, Asano, Iwashi, Toyoda - mostly nicknames), a few former national team players, and is rounded out by a couple of young national team hopefuls / youth national team standouts. The 'B' team, far younger on average (except for us), included: Jo, myself, two youth team coaches, and FC Gold Pride's Eriko Arakawa (nickname, Gan-Chan, she is just returning from a hamstring injury). We were a hodgepodge team, but proper technique and tactics are ingrained in every Japanese player at a young age, so our performance was almost seamless. This week we beat the super star 'A' team, avenging our loss from the week before thanks to goals from Arakawa and Jo. We were out-played for a lot of the game, but the 2-1 was an accomplishment none-the-less. The mid-week scrimmage is the only time other than game day that the team plays on a full size field. The rest of the week we train in tight spaces, and tight may be an understatement. When we play 9 v. 9 or 10 v. 10, we play on less than half the field. The players are so technical they don't need anymore space. However, the mid-week scrimmage on the big field is special, and something the players look forward to. It is taken very seriously, and Joanna and I can feel its importance. We consider ourselves very lucky to be a part of this training environment, and honored to have escaped with a win this week.

Clockwork Green Continued

Our journey continued with pictures (in reverse order)

Clockwork Green

(Pictures in reverse order)

Rebecca and I spent the past two days perfecting our route to practice so precisely that we now have it broken down to the second. I can assure you that this was not a simple task but one that excited two math dorks like us. It was our goal to figure out the fastest, most efficient way to practice and we think we finally have it down like clockwork .... we have become well oiled machines.

The Tokyo train system is intricate, intense, involved, and extremely punctual. I guess with a population of 12 million things have to run smoothly. The system consists of 17 different lines that weave, criss cross, and overlap. They have various labels and colors going to multiple destinations at different speeds. The stations are hard to pronounce as are the names of the lines. One false step and it could cost you big time. Add to this hundreds of people knowing exactly where they are going and why, getting off and on quickly, and vying for the prime seats. DC Metro eat your heart out ..... You gotta love the drama.

This provides a sufficient backdrop (there will be more to add) to the importance of what we have composed below. A step by step process of how we get to practice down to the second. Note: All times in parenthesis are PM.

1. Walk to the elevator (3:39)

2. Take the elevator for 33 floors to B1 (3:39:30)

3. Walk to the Tsukishima metro entrance (3:40)

4. Take 1 escalator down (3:40:15) and follow signs to the Oedo Line.

5. Walk in an L Shape to swipe metro card for Oedo Line (3:40:45)

6. Take 1 escalator down to train (3:41)

7. Get on train to the right headed towards Daimon / Roppongi (3:42)

8. Take the train 11 stops to Shinjuku Station (4:10)

9. Exit train and walk left (4:10:15)

10. Take 1 escalator up and walk left following signs for platform 4 (4:10:30)

11. Take sharp right to go up escalator 2 (4:10:45)

12. Take 2 sharp lefts (4:11)

13. Go down escalator (4:11:10)

14. Walk diagonally and take steps down to platform 4 (4:11:42)

15. Enter Express Green train on left heading towards Hashimoto * (4:12)

16. Take train 7 stops exiting at Keio Inadazutsumi (4:42)

17. Get off train and go to the right following signs for South Exit (4:43)

18. Go down stairs and take sharp right (4:43:15)

19. Go down another stairs (4:43:40)

20. Pass metro card to exit (4:44)

21. Take a sharp right down the alley (4:44:23)

22. Hang left coming out of the alley (4:45)

23. Cross street when permitted by walk signs (4:45:45)

24. Walk to bus station across from 7-11 (note: do not stand at the stop at 7-11 ... that's a different bus) (4:46 - 4:52)

25. Get on bus using metro card (4:52)

26. Ride bus until the last stop (4:52 - 4:57)

27. Exit bus and cross street (4:57:23)

28. Go up steps (4:58)

29. Take first left after steps (4:58:17)

30. Take first right (4:49)

31. Walk up hill (5:00)

32. Take next left into soccer complex entrance. Welcome to Verdy, Nippon Beleza (5:03)

33. Fields are on right, walk to your left to enter club house (5:03:30)

34. Ditch shoes at the door and say Konnichiwa to teammates (5:04:07)

* Step 15 - this is where things can get tricky. If there is any mishap in steps 1-14 causing one to miss the 4:12 Express Green train in Shinjuku that is headed towards Hashimoto a new plan has to be devised. This can be one of many things. There are 5 lines that go in the direction of Hashimoto all with differing speeds.

Trains in order of speed (slowest / most stops to the fastest / least stops):

1. Local train - Grey

2. Semi Express Train - Blue

3. Express Train - Green

4. Super Express Train - Yellow

5. Super Duper Express Train - Red

The green train is the train we have found to be the most convenient and the most efficient. It allows us to stay on the same train without transferring. To give an example of how confusing it can get, if this green train is missed one may have to board the grey local train that stops much more frequently. You would then exit at Sasazuka and wait for a faster train. Or, you could take it to Medamaie and hope that you catch a super express train ... but this super express train would still only make it to Chofu, two stops away from your final destination, therefore causing you to switch trains yet again (and we can't seem to find any schedule for the yellow and pink trains .... they are so mysterious ).

After it is all said and done we have a total trip of:

1 elevator

1 bus

2 trains

4 sets of stairs

5 escalators

and 18 train stops

consisting of a 1 hour, 25 minute, and 7 second journey .... and that is only one way =)

....... Wait until you hear about the ride back (still in the perfecting process).

And this is all done before our two hour practices in another language, in a foreign country, with the best players we have ever seen .... I need my mommy =)

From Monja to the Imperial Palace

Sept. 13-14 Around 9:00 pm we headed out to explore the streets that looked so inviting from the balcony thirty two stories above. Taejo as our guide, we followed him from the big intersection where we live to a narrow alley a few blocks away. We came to a small shop with sliding glass doors and a handful of tables. In the center of each table was a small hibachi grill. The three of us sat down at a table for four, ordered a Japanese beer, and toasted the occasion, our first time eating monja. Monja is a specialty food in Tsukishima. Our goal being to become real Tokyo-ites we relished the occasion to try this local treat. Taejo, as has become custom, ordered three different things for us to share. Monja, as we soon learned, is a pancake-like batter filled with various combinations of vegetables and meats. It comes uncooked and piled in a bowl of batter with "you be the chef" as an important part of the monja experience. Of course, we left this job to the expert, and Taejo took to the grill. To cook the Monja one must heat up the grill, oil the surface in a circular pattern, and strain the vegetable and meat contents onto the grill, leaving the liquid batter in the bowl. As the solid food cooks it is spread into a circular ring . The batter is later poured into the ring where it cooks on its own briefly. Then the whole thing is mixed together and grilled into one solid "pancake". To eat the monja we used tiny metal spatulas. The proper technique is to press a small amount of the monja into the grill surface, using the spatula to drag it towards you. It continues to cook further as it gets stuck to the spatula. When you lift your spatula up you can eat the monja off the end, and it's delicious! Twice now, when we have eaten local foods, I have had a brief moment where I am reminded of my American roots and just how different cultures and experiences can be. It seems to be Jo's job to call me out. Having a grill in the middle of the table and taking part in cooking the monja adds excitement and authenticity to the experience. It ensures a unique atmosphere, vibrant energy and an enjoyable mood. It also means that there is smoke, and of course, I was sitting down-wind . At first I didn't notice, but as my eyes began to burn, I tried to adjust my position to find a gap in the smoke to spare my eyes the watering. My efforts were futile. Jo happened to notice me squirming, and we were both left laughing, eyes watering, trying not to embarrass ourselves. We want so badly to fit in. To Kokyo and beyond! Today, Taejo left for China, Korea, and Germany, leaving us completely on our own. What did we do with our new independence, responsibility, and power? We went to the Imperial Palace! Kokyo, as it is called, is big, beautiful, and very busy. We are told the Emperor and his family do in fact live there, making it home to the longest unbroken line of monarchs in the world. Since the Palace occupies 280 acres of land, and is surrounded by moats, bridges , imposing gates, and guards, we could not get very close, nor did we have any imperial sightings. But, the Palace's beautifully manicured expanse of lawns located smack in the middle of Tokyo's two main business districts, Marunouchi and Nihombashi, made for a perfect place to study Japanese. We sat on a towel in the middle of "putting green" quality grass, practicing our verbs, sentence structure, and crafting an email to our new Japanese teammates. We want to invite them to Sumo wrestling in Ryogoku, beach volleyball in Odaiba Beach, and dinner at Izakaya. The only problem is ... Nihongo wa hanashimasen! Neither one of us speaks Japanese! Of course, we could always just ask Sawa, but that would be no fun. So, an hour later, we were still flipping through our dictionary, phrase book, and Japanese for Dummies book, and our email had only grown two sentences long. We were hungry from all the hard work. We trolled the streets for a good spot to eat. In our Tokyo tour book we read about a nice restaurant below the train tracks. We searched for twenty minutes, and never found the restaurant. Instead, we found an old man dressed in traditional Japanese garb promoting yakitori and an English menu! We resigned. Skewers of mushrooms, green peppers, eggplant, chicken, and meatballs, beer, water, two stools, a table top resting on crates of empty bottles, a crate to stow our backpack, and trains whizzing by above us, we ate happily and left very satisfied. Our first day on our own in Tokyo was historic, exhausting, and successful! Just the way it should be. I'm off to bed. Oyasuminasai - good night. Additions to the CauSAWA'nnabeher list: 1) At the monja shop, Sawa's picture and autograph adorn the wall. 2) When eating yakitori the couple next to us wanted to know where we were from and why we were in Tokyo. We told them we came to play with Miss Sawa, as she is affectionately called, and they were very impressed. 3) A nice old lady (~ 75) helped us add money to our metro cards. She wanted to know our story. Again, we told her we came to play with Miss Sawa, and she began to squeeze our arms, smiling, and saying, "sugoi, sugoi", a Japanese expression used for, cool, awesome, neat. TO BE CONTINUED ....

Harajuku Girls

September 13th, 2009

Who needs Nike Town when you have Snoopy Town? I never thought there could be an entire floor of a store dedicated to Charlie Brown's mischievous dog, Snoopy, until of course, I came to Japan ....... and Snoopy does not disappoint. Backpacks, pens, suitcases, pillows, key chains, anything and everything Snoopy all housed in what we call Kiddy Land, by far our most favorite store in Harajuku, the shopping center of Tokyo. Kiddy Land has 6 floors (and a basement), each with its own theme and none of them lack in bedazzle. If you ever want a Hello Kitty day planner or trash can simply visit level 2. Simpson's? That would be level 6. Disney characters including all the Princesses? Level 5. Stickers, stuffed animals, dancing toys, umbrellas, bath toys? Pick any level and go wild. While in Kiddy Land we had the luxury of sampling many of the products, as you will see from the pictures, and we will be sure to bring plenty of them home as souvenires. Don't be surprised if I am wheeling all of our goodies in my new Hello Kitty suitcase. Harajuku is bumpin and so is Shibuya. You could literally shop until you drop at all the brand named stores, people watch for days, and I can personally recommend the pizza from Shakeys restaurant overlooking the strip. There was no soccer today since our team, Beleza, was playing a league match in Chiba. During our shopping adventure we learned that they won 7-1 with Sawa scoring two goals and also having an assist. No surprise, since Sawa has been promoted to be the lone forward in a 4-2-3-1 formation. A change from her defensive midfield role on the Freedom but one that she is embracing and thriving in. As each day passes we have further proof that Sawa is quite the celebrity here in Japan, for good reason (we will continuoulsy add to this list as the journey continues ... it shall be called the "cauSAWAnnabeher" list). We stumbled upon her autobiography while in the soccer club house and also her soccer skills book and Japanese National team book while in the apartment with Taejo. After looking through the pictures (we can't read the Japanese symbols) we feel even more lucky to be here playing with her and her team. Not to mention the young woman we asked for directions while in Shibuya that knew Sawa and her career both with Atlanta in the WUSA and the Freedom in the WPS. She is a big deal. Things I learned today: 1. Japan has amazing bike paths - Although I don't have a bike, I was able to run on these paths all through Tsukishima .... on bridges, over canals, and through the streets .... and not feel as if I was going to be struck by some type of moving vehicle. 2. Baseball diamonds are more like baseball circles - There is not much space in Tokyo and so multiple baseball fields share outfields. This becomes a little more complicated when there are batters from all different sides all hitting into the same outfield .... yet it seems to work. 3. Harajuku Girls do indeed exist - They are every bit as interesting as the name sounds. 4. Hashi means both bridge and chopsticks - Could be the cause of some confusion in restaurants if the syllables are not emphasized properly .... but luckily, the server has yet to bring us a bridge.

5. The Japanese love weiners - YUM!

6. Hello Kitty has a goth twin named Yoshikitty - She's really edgy

7. Happiness is a warm puppy - Who knew? Wow .... my new favorite quote

8. Eating Monja makes your eyes water and clothes smell - Maybe Becca will explain more about this in the next blog after her eyes recover from being blood shot.