Tokyo or Bust!

His Excellency

2009-11-25T10:39:00.003+09:00

Above: The Ambassador standing next to Yukio Hatoyama, the Prime Minister of Japan

Above: American and Japanese flags side by side in the background as Obama speaks in Tokyo

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It was 10am on Friday morning, October 30th, 2009. Rebecca and I stood outside of the U.S. Embassy in Tokyo wearing matching Beleza long sleeve jerseys. We had an appointment with the Ambassador. Security was tight, but nothing gets you past the gates faster than name dropping John Roos (he’s the Ambassador). -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- We walk through the metal detectors and were met by Mike Quinlan, John's right hand man. We were in. We were not your typical visitor. In his third month on the job, the Ambassador’s days were filled with formal meetings with Japanese officials, including the Prime Minister, and even the Emperor. So, when two young, American women with athletic builds, bright smiles, and soccer attire come strolling in, you do get some intriguing looks. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Why did the Ambassador, who has a celebrity status packed schedule, agree to meet with us and why do we want to meet with him? What do we do? What team did we come with? Who is funding our experience? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- All of these questions and more would be covered over the next hour as we sat on the Ambassador's couch conversing, laughing, and building a relationship that proved to be valuable and rewarding in the weeks to come. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So,why in the world was John taking time out of his day to meet with us? Well, it started with an email, one that I sent him out of encouragement from my partner in my commercial real estate business, Tenant Consulting. Craig Lussi, the brains and inspiration behind Tenant Consulting in Washington, DC, gave me strict instructions, "Get a meeting with the Ambassador or visit the Embassy every day until you do." ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ It was a mighty task but one I was not intimidated by. Spending 3 years under Craig's tutorial you start to believe you can accomplish anything. After doing ground breaking and world record deals for multiple Embassies in Washington, DC, we had plenty of reason to think we have something to offer. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- And so I did, after building a resume that included a full season of professional soccer with the Washington Freedom in the WPS, 2 months of off-season training with an all Japanese team in an all Japanese league, a friendship with the "Mia Hamm" of Japan, Homare Sawa, an extremely successful blog that was also being translated into Japanese, and a strong presence in the business world back home, I had the perfect email composed for the Ambassador. I attached an article that was written about me on the cover of the Sports section of the Washington Post, I attached the link to our blog, I gave the good news that I would become the GM of the Washington Freedom W-League team, and most importantly, I spoke highly of the cross culture experience that Rebecca and I had been enjoying for the past two months. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I am not exactly sure what part of the email sparked the Ambassador's interest, but I do know there was something about it he couldn't resist. Maybe it was my tenacity in wanting to meet him, the enthusiasm in which I spoke, or maybe, just maybe, it was the intrigue of meeting the two young women that came to Japan with little expectation and had their world turned around. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Why do we want to meet with John? It was simple really. We wanted an opportunity to meet the man that had the tall task of connecting two countries with the strongest economies. We wanted to pick his brain. We wanted to learn. We wanted an inside look at the everyday duties of an Obama appointee. We wanted to share our story. We wanted to share our story on a grander scale. We wanted John and his colleagues to learn about our unique and rewarding experience in Japan. In essence, we wanted, on a much smaller scale, to be Ambassador's ourselves. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ We learned how John became Ambassador. We learned how he was a personal nominee of Obama, a dear friend, who thought John would be great for the position, although he possessed no prior diplomatic experience. We learned how the celebrity treatment as U.S. Ambassador is an amusing and refreshing change. We learned how his daughter, Lauren, has aspirations to become a nurse in Los Angeles. We learned how his son, David, has several college prospects (one of which is Duke so Rebecca was a valuable source of information). We learned how his wife, Susie, is able to work remotely from Tokyo for her law firm back in California. We learned how John has a strong allegiance to Stanford and how this has enabled him to immediately bond with Yukio Hatoyama, the Prime Minister of Japan, who is also a Stanford grad. We learned how he lives immediately next to the Embassy in a private residence that General MacArthur once resided. We learned how Obama had plans to soon visit as he kicked off his Asian tour. As you can see, we learned a great deal, but above all else, we came to appreciate John for his comforting sense of humor and openness. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The learning, however, was not just on our part. John learned how our soccer careers started, where they have taken us, and how we ended up in Japan. He learned how the American and Japanese Women’s Professional Soccer league’s (WPS and the L-League) run. He learned more on Tenant Consulting. He learned how both Rebecca and I have California Berkeley family ties. He learned of our Japanese teammates. Her learned how our adventure has and will take us all over Tokyo and Japan. Most importantly, he learned how our passion for the sport inspires me and Rebecca to travel all over the world. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ John liked our story. He offered to help us in whatever way we could. It was the perfect segway for us to ask the question, could Rebecca and I write an article on the Embassy website about our experience? (A great suggestion by my brother, Peter, who is in the Foreign Service.) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ask and you shall receive........Our wish was granted and soon Rebecca and I will put together a piece that will detail our experience and all that Japan has taught us. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- We were thrilled at all the opportunities presented during the meeting with the Ambassador. We left with the invitation of attending Obama's speech the following week and watching the Cal Berkley/Stanford football game with a star studded guest list that included the Prime Minister himself at the Ambassador's private residence. We left feeling on top of the world. As we left, we smiled ear to ear, we laughed, we joked, and we even proceeded to walk in circles attempting to find our train home. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ I guess train stations are hard to find when you are on cloud nine=)

Yukio Hatoyama

2009-11-23T23:42:00.003+09:00

Above: (Please refer back to our last blog, "Meet the Big Six") Me and Rebecca posing with Yukio Hatoyama, the Prime Minister or Japan during the Big Game Football Party at the Ambassador's private residence.

Meet the Big Six

2009-11-23T22:59:00.004+09:00

Above: The U.S. Ambassador holding a California Berkley pin (much to his chagrin) during the Big Game Football Party Above: The Resident Awestruck Lady Bug holding her delicious pumpkin pancake concoction Above: President Barack Obama speaking at Suntory Hall in Tokyo, Japan

Above: Krishna on Miyajima Island

Above: Nik serenading us in his home in Shikoku

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As promised in our last blog, “Splatter Painting Our Way Through Japan”, (and here is where I go out on a limb and assume you are a faithful reader), I will continue to paint our picture by introducing you to several people. Each individual, with his or her own distinct color, will be a featured star in future blogs.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Meet John Roos, U.S. Ambassador to Japan.

The lawyer made diplomat is new on the scene in the Pacific. John grew up in California and went on to attend Stanford University and then Stanford Law School (he was and is no slouch). His political career started on a whim when he got a call soon after walking into the White House (security was much looser back then) and dropping his resume on the front desk. With continued close ties to the government, he practiced law in California and rubbed elbows with the political elite. Fast forward many years and John’s long shot nomination turned victory, lands me and Rebecca in his office. With matching Beleza uniforms, (if you can’t dress business professional, dress soccer professional) we managed to make a lasting impression that would spurn valuable opportunities for the weeks following.

Future blog: More specifics on our meeting with Japan’s newest (going on 4 months) acting Ambassador/Celebrity/Big Deal. -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Meet Resident Awestruck Ladybug, Couchsurfer in Sonobe, Kyoto.

The Vermont native now finds herself in the rural town of Sonobe, Kyoto teaching English to high school students. Going by many an alias, she is every bit as interesting as her Couchsurfing (Couchsurfing – Please refer back to an earlier blog for a detailed description) name suggests. A fan of death metal, scarification, and piercings, she makes one mean egg plant parmesan and an even meaner pumpkin pancake. To go along with her bubbly personality and warm smile, she possesses a playful energy that you can’t help but love. The Resident Awestruck Ladybug would be the first of many to welcome me and Rebecca into her home, and, therefore, onto her futon as we traveled throughout Japan.

Future blog: A full description of our Kyoto’s river boat tours, underground café’s, and post office debacles.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Meet Barack Obama, President of the United States of America.

If there was ever a man that needed no introduction, it is he. President of the United States and good friend of John Roos (nominated to Ambassadorship by Obama himself), Obama would kick off his Asian tour in Japan. Thanks to our newly established relationship with John, Rebecca and I would be invited by the White House to attend Obama’s speech at Suntory Hall. Sitting on the second level, surrounded by media and well dressed Japanese and American officials, we watched wide eyed and all ears.

Future blog: All the action on our Presidential shopping trip, early morning Obama eloquence, and worthwhile Embassy networking.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Meet Krishna Somnah, Couchsurfer in Hiroshima, Japan.

Born and raised on the island of Mauritius, (this island, off the African East coast and close to Madagascar, was once a French colony ….and, yes, it is OK to now look it up on a map), Krishna teaches English and math at the high school level. Pacifist and strong believer in friendly international relations, he spends his free time leading peace conferences at the Peace Park Convention Center in Hiroshima. With experience in teaching at an International Bachelorette School in Mauritius, he hopes to spark a similar program in Japan. He loves his tea and toast in the morning, spicy Mauritian curry at night, and is quick to debate on the death penalty, futbol history, and Japanese culture (this is where I must plug in that Rebecca was the fiercest debate partner Krishna has ever seen…..after about a half dozen comments highlighting Rebecca’s verbal aptitude, it was obvious to all of us that Krishna would dearly miss Rebecca’s intellectual feistiness). Krishna would be a fine host as Rebecca and I spent the day personally witnessing the historic implications of the A-Bomb.

Future blog: An inside look at the Peace Park Museum, cooking lessons, and run-ins with Bambi-Chan on the beautiful island of Miyajima.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Meet Nik Holm, Couchsurfer in Takamatsu, Shikoku.

Having met Nik in the first month of our trip, he was (and even more so now), relatively speaking of course (we met him on one occasion for only three hours), considered a close friend. Also a teacher of English to Japanese students, he spends his days on one of the most remote islands of Japan. With a dry, Canadian wit, he is a humorous source of knowledge on an endless array of eclectic topics. Fascinated by astronomy and 5 time champion of Halloween costume contests, he possesses the musical skills to serenade you over acoustic guitar. Although always in constant search for the next epic Leonid meteor shower, he never misses a chance to share a lively conversation over a home cooked meal.

Future blog: Education on never ending stair cases, bamboo forests, and Astronomy 101.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Meet Yukio Hatoyama, Prime Minister of Japan.

Recently elected from the Democratic Party of Japan, Yukio is a refreshing change to the 50 year rule of the Liberal Democratic Party. Also a Stanford graduate, Yukio has the challenging task of sparking a deflated economy in a country instilled with a unique cultural make up and stocked with tradition. With a star studded guest list at the Ambassador’s personal residence, Yukio would be the honored recipient of a California Berkley pin during the Big Game Football Party. Express mailed to Japan from my dear sister Molly and her husband, Tyson, in California, two pins (along with t-shirts, pom poms, fake tattoos, a visor, a winter hat, and rally beads) would personally find their way into the hands of both the Ambassador and Yukio courtesy of me and Rebecca.

Future blog: A celebration of Cal victories, historic MacArthur homes, and meals with the Ambassador’s family and friends.

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So, it is obvious we have a lot to blog about. With a small taste of things to come, I hope you are as excited as we are to share this eventful end to our story.

Splatter Painting our way Across Japan

2009-11-22T17:51:00.005+09:00

When I think about our journey in Japan, I liken it to a Jackson Pollack painting. Pollack was an action painter. He bucked tradition. He pushed aside the easel and brush, and created his works through a technique of pouring and dripping. With his canvas spanned across the floor, his entire body in motion, his paint would flow from all directions as if he were dancing. It is this unique style along with his intensity and oneness with his work that has made me an admirer and gives me great pleasure to compare my story with his. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- On September 8th, 2009, Becca and I came to Tokyo with an blank canvas. With every person we met and every experience we had, our canvas became more colorful, more textured, more intricate, more complex, and more fulfilling. Each event in Japan had its own unique style and each was memorable in its own right. However, when the movement ceases and you take a step back to view what you have truly accomplished, you witness it is no longer just a painting but a multi-layered masterpiece with each drip working harmoniously to create something more beautiful than ever expected. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ October 30th was a turning point for Rebecca and me, and at that distinct moment, our painting was already bright. So much so, that if were sent back to America that day, we would have applauded all of our achievements. What we did not know at the time, and would later learn, was that our experiences the last three weeks would add the necessary final touches to turn what was just a canvas of color into an unforgettable work of art. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- In order to fully understand and grasp how far this story has come, we must first introduce you to the new faces that will come to shape our lives. Each individual described in the next blog has a unique background and each will play a key role in our ever evolving journey. I will keep these intro's short and sweet, the purpose of this being three fold. One, to pique your interest. Two, to not spoil the ending, and three, to give you a sneak preview in the magical adventures in blogland that are about to come.

Veni Vidi Vici

2009-11-15T20:54:00.019+09:00

Our last day with Beleza was both a happy one and a sad one. In normal fashion, we jogged around the outside of the training facility, warming up as we waited for practice to start. We stopped to exchange a few “Janglish” words with the fans that had come to watch our last practice. One fan, in particular, has always been very sweet to us, and we enjoy stopping to chat with her through the fence. She is a strong Beleza supporter and has offered me and Jo encouragement on many occasions. Our relationship with her is a funny thing, you know. We’ve only spoken a half dozen times, at games and through the fence at practice, and our vocabulary is equally as limited. In fact, language exchange has been a very small part of what we’ve accomplished here in Japan. Yet, we’ve built many meaningful relationships. It’s really a remarkable thing. We rely on facial expressions, body posture, big smiles, and a friendly tone of voice. On our last day, the fan had brought with her a present to give us after practice. ___________________________________________________________________ As we finished warming up, Mr. Hoshikawa called Jo and me over. Standing with him were Sawa and Shino. In a joint effort (mostly Mr. Hoshikawa speaking, Sawa translating, and Shino giggling), they informed us that we would be playing a four team, 5 v. 5, round robin tournament complete with futsal balls and mini goals! Mr. Hoshikawa and goalkeeper coach, Kazu, would be playing as well. Heck Yeah! After that, we would play a bigger match. Jo and I would be captains and responsible for choosing our own teams. Sound like fun? It sure was. ____________________________________________________________________ I don’t know if there’s anything more fun than mini goals and futsal balls. Add to that the skilled style and crafty thinking of the Beleza players and the thrill goes up exponentially. The games were fast and furious. For some girls the conventional seriousness of training began to melt away. There was an air of youthful jubilation, complete with silly jokes, goofy behavior, and laughs all around. My team jumped right in. We won; we lost; we cheered regardless of the score, and we had an absolute blast. ____________________________________________________________________ On a side note, Sawa’s team was stacked with offensive talent. I suspected she had a hand in choosing her team, and I was pretty sure they expected to sweep the tournament. As is often the case, on a team full of all-stars (Sawa, Naga, Jo, Shino, & Kazu), no one wanted to do the dirty work, and as the entire team crept forward, they were left exposed to the counter attack in the back. When one goal after another began to slip in, Sawa shouted to her teammates to fix the problem. In the end, however, overcome by a deeply ingrained sense of responsibility, she was left guarding the goal by herself. For Freedom fans wondering about the attacking prowess of Ms. Homare Sawa (as she is respectfully referred to in Japan), I hope one day you will have the pleasure of watching her play free of defensive burden. She is capable of having a stunning offensive presence, moving with remarkable speed and quickness, and her vision of the field is unmatched. ____________________________________________________________________ After the small sided tournament, battle/comedy show had ended, we divided into two teams. As captains, Jo and I both went for defenders first (unsurprisingly, the only undefeated 5 v. 5 team was almost entirely composed of defenders). Jo picked, “super model, Sudo” in the first round, and I picked “future business partner” in café Beleza, pastry chef, Toyoda. Here’s how the teams broke down: ____________________________________________________________________ Jo's team: TEAM PERSONALITY ____________________________________________________________________ Chiaki: aka “slow rabbit”. Also, the most likely player to trip (korobu), slip (suberu), or fall (ochiru) during the run of play, she is always the first to crack jokes. ____________________________________________________________________ Ganchan: aka Tako for life. Enough said. ____________________________________________________________________ Rumi: shy at first, but possessing a smile that can win you over without words attached. ____________________________________________________________________ Buchi: aka Gachapin, best friend to Muk (Jo), characters from what I believe is a beloved Japanese cartoon of old. ____________________________________________________________________ Kiryu: name sounds more like “kill you” when pronounced with an American version of a Japanese accent. She is also nicknamed, “the gazelle” because of her speed on the pitch. ____________________________________________________________________ Miku: the “pink panther”. Beleza’s colors are a combination of pink and green. Miku, unlike the WPS goalkeepers, eagerly sports her pink shorts and pink jersey. She rocks it with bright yellow shoes and catlike reflexes. ____________________________________________________________________ Hara: aka Inakamono, which in Japanese translates to “country bumpkin.” We learned this expression watching Hula Girls at Mai’s house, and we received strict instructions from Chi (slow rabbit) to use this phrase for Hara. ____________________________________________________________________ Misaki: like a sister. Soft spoken and caring, she was the first player to show warmth to me and Jo, and we will never forget her generosity. ____________________________________________________________________ My Team: BUSINESS BEFORE PLEASURE ____________________________________________________________________ Iwashi: aka Michael Jordan, “I’ve got ups, don’t mess with me.” ____________________________________________________________________ Sawa: unofficial team captain and center back king-pin for “Business Before Pleasure”. ____________________________________________________________________ Naga: Star forward turned goalkeeper. ____________________________________________________________________ Kinga: aka Camerrrrron Diaz and the energizer bunny. ____________________________________________________________________ Shino: Star forward turned right back. ____________________________________________________________________ Asano: aka Mickey Mouse gets my vote for “trendiest dresser” on the team. She’s like a less gothic version of Avril Lavigne. ____________________________________________________________________ Koba: an extra in the movie, “Pirates of the Caribbean”, took a blow to the face and was designated unfit to play until she no longer needed her eye patch. ____________________________________________________________________ And, last but not least… ____________________________________________________________________ Mai: aka Tako for life. Enough said. ____________________________________________________________________ Honorable mention: Yayoi, aka Paparazzi, still sidelined by significant pain and a relentless knee injury, watched from a bipartisan bench, cheering both teams and snapping pictures the whole time. ____________________________________________________________________ After a hard fought battle, complete with line changes, trick plays, nut-megs, football tackles, and many theatrical performances, the game ended in a 1-1 tie and destined for penalty kicks. Five to four, team “Business Before Pleasure”, took care of the business end of things and then celebrated like it was the World Cup. Team “Personality”, looking utterly surprised, had been completely distracted by each other’s playful banter and hadn’t noticed the score until just that moment. ______________________________________________________________ “Sasotte kurrete arigato”, said Jo. “Thank you for inviting me.” And, with that, the tears began to flow. All of a sudden, in three short words, Jo had reminded everyone that this was it. The wave of sentiment that followed was contagious, the tears as well, and before things deteriorated any further, Mr. Hoshikawa appeared, two zip-up coolers in hand, humming a trumpeters tune, presenting Jo and I with the coolers stuffed with farewell gifts hidden inside. ____________________________________________________________________ I could hear Sawa’s voice, echoing, “You’re going to cry.” And, I knew this wasn’t just any gift. Inside was a handful of things, Beleza gear, hats, coffee mugs (I have an international reputation for being an avid coffee drinker), stuffed animals, and so on. Two things stood out. One was a hand decorated canvas bag. On one side there was a soccer field with “FC Beleza” written diagonally across the front. On the other side was a Beleza jersey with the number 12, the number reserved for Beleza supporters, and our names written across the top. Inside the canvas bag was something truly remarkable. A handmade scrap book, each page decorated by two players, with pictures, a signed copy of their player cards, and a personal note attached. ____________________________________________________________________ I can’t begin to put into words what this book means to me, and I know Jo feels the same way. It’s an incredible testimony to everything we’ve done in Japan. We’ve seen so many amazing places and met even more amazing people. I have many lifelong memories from my time here, and thanks to the Beleza girls, I have a beautiful scrap book to commemorate my trip. Whenever I miss Japan I will look to my scrap book to remind me of all the fun I had and the wonderful friends I made. I hope someday I will have the chance to come back. ____________________________________________________________________ Watashi wa Beleza wo aishiteru! Beleza, I love you! ____________________________________________________________________

So Long, Farewell, I Hate to Say Goodbye

2009-11-12T23:01:00.004+09:00

Above: The Japanese half of the Tako Tomodachi

Above: Tako Tomodachi dinner in Fuchu (our new hometown)

Above: Sashimi dinner with Tsukoshi in Shimokitazawa

Permit me to go in reverse for one second. I mentioned in the blog yesterday that Beleza played their last regular season game on Sunday, November 1st. I also mentioned that after the game we partied late into the night, celebrating the successful season. And, I included impressive statistics about the 15,865 steps we walked, jumped, and danced that day. What I didn’t tell you was that the two days before were also action packed.

___________ Saturday morning, before training, we had to move from our comfortable thirty second floor living arrangement in Tsukishima into a bare but adequate Caesar Business Hotel (nicknamed, Caesar’s Palace) in Fuchu. Ganchan’s birthday dinner the night before, left us still packing at 2:00am. And when Saturday morning arrived earlier than usual we were anything but happy to wake up and lug our bags across Tokyo, only to have to drop them off and rush the rest of the way to practice to avoid being late. Needless to say, we were operating on a significant sleep deficit when Sunday’s festivities began. Whenever I felt exhaustion weighing down on me, I looked to Jo and her endless enthusiasm to help me rise to the occasion.

_________ Of course, on Monday, after all the moving and shaking, I crashed and slept the entire day away, curtains drawn, enjoying my “luxurious” western style twin bed (my first bed in nearly two months – a truly indescribable feeling).

_________ Tuesday rolled around, and I wasn’t sure if I was recovered enough to get through another week of soccer practice. I was relieved when Mr. Hoshikawa began with a playful speech that, when translated, sounded something like, “this is Becky and Jo’s last week; communication must be high.” Usually dividing players according to their starter or reserve status, convention was cast away and the teams were intermixed. Jo and I were separated, and everyone was encouraged to make the most of their last week with their American teammates. However playful soccer practice started that day, when the skills portion of practice got sloppy and the passing became imprecise, the tone was quickly revised as Mr. Hoshikawa’s stern voice and serious tenor snapped everyone into shape.

_________ Tuesday night we had dinner in Shimokitazawa with Tsukoshi. He is the fitness coach for the men’s team, Verdy. As bad luck would have it, he cannot work because he is in the beginning stages of rehabbing his knee from a torn ACL. As good luck would have it, this injury put him in the weight room, during a time of relative quiet, prime for Joanna to strike up conversations in her fledgling Japanese between sets of squats, lunges, and curls. Tsukoshi has aspirations to continue his soccer specific fitness education in the US, England, Germany, and/or the Netherlands. If he comes to the US, we intend to help in every way possible. Tuesday we celebrated our new friendship with Tsukoshi and expanded on our never ending list of exotic and raw foods.

_________ Saturday night was reserved for the Tako Tomodachi to spend together (as was Sunday night, but that will be included in the next blog). All week, the girls had been hearing stories about our new apartment: no hot water, a “broken” rice cooker, and a kitchen devoid of pots, pans, plates, bowls, knives, forks, and everything else you need to use a kitchen properly (or even at all). They were curious to know how we were handling our “atarashii chōsen” or “new challenge”. And so, the Japanese half of the Tako Tomodachi resolved to visit Caesar’s Palace and check up on their American counterparts.

_________ Starving from training earlier that day, we stopped to gorge ourselves on Chinese food before foraying into the walls and halls of Caesar’s Palace. Our friends only made it halfway through our front door when our un-Japanese behavior stopped them in their tracks. Our shoe closet, mostly empty of shoes, had one shelf stacked with books and two shelves stocked with the packaged food that didn’t fit in our tiny kitchen. The “ooo’s”, “aah’s”, and laughter that followed made it apparent that we had misused the closet space. After our American-ness was examined and explored, we passed the time eating ice cream and various salty and chocolaty snacks from the convenience store, watching YouTube videos of Ganchan singing and dancing with the FC Gold Pride, and sharing pictures of Moms, Dads, Bothers, Sisters, Grandparents, Nieces, and many other important people. Bidding Mai and Ganchan goodbye around 8:00pm, it was time to pack, yet again.

________ Next Blog: (1) Last Practice with Beleza & (2) Tabe-ho, Nomi-ho with the Tako Tomodachi

Back to Beleza

2009-11-11T21:55:00.003+09:00

Beleza Party: Adult Table Beleza Party: Kids Table

Beleza sisters: Asano & Naga

Last Game of the Season: Coach, Mr. Hoshikawa, thanks the fans for a great season. _____

It’s been far too long since our last blog, but since the length of our absence is indicative of how much fun we’ve been having, I hope you can see it is a good thing! Much has happened, and we are eager to share our stories with you. Everything from meeting new people and visiting new cities, to talking with the new American Ambassador and being invited to see Obama speak live in Tokyo this Saturday. Needless to say, reviewing all these happenings in one blog would be like running the proverbial marathon. Instead, in true sprinter style, I will do my best to deliver each experience in a quick and powerfully entertaining burst through a series of blogs to come one at a time over the next three days.

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First and foremost, my soccer days in Tokyo are over. I have been away from the team only three days, and already I miss them. When I hear people talking with the youthful enthusiasm ubiquitous to all young people, independent of where you grew up or what language you speak, words like, “segoi”, “honto”, and “oskare sama des” bring me right back to the Beleza locker room and the voices of the people I’ve grown so fond of. As I am traveling through Japan, I know they are still training, braving the elements, working hard to become better soccer players, and laughing together along the way. Their exceptional attitudes and fun-loving spirits shown through bright eyes and big smiles, it’s impossible not to love them, and it’s impossible not to miss them.

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Our last week with the team was a special one. We went to historic Kyougijyo Stadium built in 1964 for the Tokyo Olympics to see Beleza play in their last regular season game of the year. They beat Inac in true Beleza fashion, out possessing and out working the opponent to secure second place in the league and a number two seed for the post season tournament. During the game, Jo and I made our way through the stands saying our hellos (and goodbyes) to parents and friends. We spent one of the halves cheering and talking with Beleza’s biggest supporters. They have awesome chants, incredible enthusiasm, and we loved jumping into the middle of their sea of green to support our friends and teammates on the field.

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After the game the supporters created a cheer to thank us for coming to Japan, training with the team, and cheering along with them in the stands on game days. They presented us each with a T-shirt from the Tsukiji fish market (the most famous in Tokyo) and a laminated group photo of us in the middle of all the supports taken at the game the week before. Their gratitude and generosity was incredible, and we are grateful for everything they have done to make our time with Beleza a truly amazing experience. It’s not always easy watching your teammates from the stands, not being on the field, not being on the bench, but joining the ranks of the true Beleza supporters gave us an outlet to contribute to the best of our cheering, chanting, arm raising, jumping, and singing ability.

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That night we had a team party, complete with food, drinks, and Karaoke. We all solemnly swore before the party commenced that, “what happens at the Beleza party, stays at the Beleza party.” Alas, I am sorry to say, that’s all I am at liberty to share with you.

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Critically important factoid! After game day at Kyougijyo Stadium and Beleza’s end of the season party Joanna’s pedometer read: 15,865 steps. That was our day off, and not the least bit atypical. I usually need a day off from our days off.

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Next blog: Our last day of practice with Beleza

When Green Meets Blue

2009-10-26T15:55:00.006+09:00

(VIDEO AT THE BOTTOM)

It was a heavy week of training, but not for the usual reasons. The Beleza team was laden with injuries and influenza, and as the numbers at training dropped the tension mounted. Scheduled to play the number one team in the league on Saturday, it was a hard week to be short players. It all started a month ago when midfielder, Yayoi, first injured her knee. Everyday she works hard to help the healing process, completing a full page of exercises and receiving acupuncture treatment regularly. Then, two weeks ago, Sawa strained her right quad muscle. Playing in pain until her body finally said, "enough". This week she was sidelined and forced to rest. Next, Naga (lone forward in a 4-2-3-1 formation), came down with the swine flu, and her younger sister, Asano (right midfielder), was also forced to be absent until Naga recovers.

Jo and I wished we could dress with the team. It would have been awesome to play with the Beleza women in Saturday's big game. However, not permitted on the field, we put on our team jerseys and stationed ourselves in the middle of Beleza's die hard fans. Doing our best to chant, jump and cheer Beleza to victory, we enjoyed watching our friends do battle. Young players gave everything they had to fill the big shoes of missing legends like Sawa. The game ended in a 1-1 tie, and as the players lined up and bowed in gratitude to their fans, I could see the disappointment in their eyes. They were missing key players, but had come for a win anyway, and were disappointed with the tie.

After the game we had big plans. With four tickets to see the Blue Man Group (thanks to Kelly, who I will stop introducing and re-introducing since we have referred to her a half dozen times in the blog already --- http://www.magnifeco.com/ --- check it out), we were so excited to spend the afternoon with the Tako Tomodachi. With only two short weeks left with our Japanese teammates we are acutely aware of how finite our time here is, and we are so grateful to Ganchan and Mai for being such good friends and helping us make the most of our time in Tokyo.

Armed with enthusiasm for Blue Man, we hurried to the train station. We grabbed a quick bite to eat and jumped on a train to Roppongi. Dashing through rain drops, Mai wheeling a suitcase full of game day equipment, and checking our damp and fragile map for directions, we slipped into our seats right before the doors closed and the show started. We were glad we didn't miss anything, and twenty minutes later, we found out just how glad we really were.

Around that time, it was the middle of Blue Man's third skit, a couple walked in and everything stopped. A spotlight shined brightly in their faces, illuminating them as they went to their seats. A camera followed them as they walked on their tippie toes, shoulders hunched and hands covering their faces. The image was projected onto a big screen TV for the whole audience to see. Through the sound system a big, booming voice sung out, "you're late, you're late, you're late", in Japanese. We laughed with the rest of the audience, but man were we glad we weren't those people!

During the show we wore our white paper headbands, indicating to the Blue Men that we wanted to be called from the audience to join them on stage. When they climbed on chairs and marched through the aisles looking for a volunteer, we raised our hands and cheered (Ganchan even held up baby oranges, hoping that might tip them in our favor - unfortunately, it didn't work). When, alas, they picked the little old lady next to us, we couldn't help feeling a little disappointed. Five minutes later, she stole the show, and we forgot our qualms with the Blue Men.

Riveted by bright colors and black lights, drum beats and live music, and, of course, the theatrical performances of the Blue Men, we watched the show from the edge or our seats, slack-jawed, and turning to each other in between bouts of laughter with confirming looks of bewilderment. It was an awesome performance and even cooler to experience in Tokyo with the Tako Tomodachi. After the show, the producer came to give us a tour of the backstage. He explained how they do some of the stunts in the show (we can't tell you these important secrets, but we can recommend seeing the show in person - it's AWESOME).

The highlight of our tour, however, was playing the PVC pipe drums with the Blue Men. The drum itself was pretty cool, a huge set of twisted PVC pipes, intertwined to look something like a cross between intestines and the brain. The end of each pipe, left open, faced upward. Different pipes were responsible for different notes. The sound was elicited by banging a flat, semi-soft, paddle on the open end of the pipe (see picture for further explanation). We banged on the pipes, making a mess of the musical notes that followed and smiling from ear-to-tone-deaf-ear, until the Blue Men joined us for our much anticipated photo op.

Not wanting our Blue Man Group experience to end or the memory to fade with time, we bought matching Blue Man Group T-shirts to commemorate the night (promising to wear them when we climb Mt. Fuji together in the future). Afterward, the Tako Tomodachi headed to a delicious yakitori restaurant down the street (more on dinner delicacies in the next blog). Although Jo and I told Mai and Ganchan that they were not allowed to pay for anything, Mai slipped off under Ganchan's cover and paid the entire bill before the end of dinner. We tried to fight with them, but unable to express ourselves in Japanese, we were left, yet again, thanking Mai and Ganchan profusely for their never ending generosity.

We are so grateful and so lucky to have made such good friends in Tokyo. I hope they will come visit us in the U.S. and give us the chance to repay their generosity.

Even More Hakone Open Air Museum Pictures

2009-10-21T00:33:00.002+09:00

More Hakone Open Air Museum Pictures

2009-10-21T00:31:00.001+09:00

Hakone Open Air Museum Pictures

2009-10-21T00:27:00.003+09:00

Hakone Open Air Museum

2009-10-20T23:53:00.003+09:00

These are pictures from the Hakone Open Air Museum. We spent about 2 hours, on a beautiful, clear day, enjoying this museum. Unlike most art museums where you are only permitted to look but never touch, the Open Air Museum offered many exhibits where climbing in, around, on, and through the sculptures was not only allowed but encouraged (under the age of 13 but Becca and I missed those signs). My kind of museum.

My most favorite piece had to be the "Woods of Net" (picture in the next blog). Imagine a gigantic lincoln log igloo with huge wooden beams layered in a staggered pattern that created an airy enclosure, home to a web of technicolor nets. This gigantic hammock, suspended from the ceiling, was comprised of many smaller hammocks that were sewn together to create a series of netted passageways. In order to reach the top, one had to circumnavigate these littler hammocks, squirming through holes made for 13 year olds and pulling oneself to the top. (I would like to point out here that Becca wrote the entire explanation of the "Woods of Nets" because her knack for detail is far greater than my own. I don't think, in my entire life, I have used the word circumnavigate. She is very smart and I am officially impressed.)

Once I reached the top, I did as any 13 year old would....I ran around in circles, climbed all sides like a little monkey, and slid down on my butt. So much fun.

When we weren't breaking the age limit rules, we stared in awe at the size, detail, and variety of the other works of art. There were massive sculptures made of bronze, steel, and metal, original works from Pablo Picasso, colored murals, warm foot baths, and so much more.

Becca did an incredible job of photographing most of the pieces which we share with you in this blog and others.

More Fuji Pictures

2009-10-20T14:23:00.002+09:00

Hakone and Fuji Pictures

2009-10-20T14:18:00.002+09:00

Kawagoe Matsuri Festival Videos

2009-10-20T14:00:00.010+09:00

Kawagoe, Hakone, and Mt. Fuji

2009-10-20T13:12:00.005+09:00

Hello again. A lot has happened since our last blog and in an effort to please our faithful readers in a limited amount of time, this is one of those entries where I take a back seat to the wonderful and interesting pictures and videos. I realize that many times, pictures cannot do justice to something you have recently experienced and words tend to be even more tedious, but I am hoping, with the right combination of words, pictures, and streaming video, you will be transformed to the outskirts of Tokyo living each moment with us.

Let's begin. The weekend started on Saturday. Beleza had a match in the southern part of Japan so this gave us the opportunity to have three days off from soccer to adventure and explore. Our first journey took us to Kawagoe, Japan ("Little Tokyo") and the Matsuri Festival held there every third weekend in October. The festival was every bit as interesting as it was described by the New York Times (we read the article before we left). There were floats (and not your normal Homecoming Parade floats.....these were made of much sturdier materials, taller, and thinner, used year after year to honor this storied occasion), dancers, drummers, foods of all fashions from octopus balls (Takoyaki) to chocolate covered bananas, and games for kids including fishing for many types of prizes (turtles, fish, rubber balls, toys). Each float was followed by paraders in traditional Japanese garb holding ropes connected to the movable, spinable structure. There were people everywhere...on the streets, sidewalks, in beer gardens, eating, drinking, taking pictures, dancing.......it was sensory overload.

Rebecca, our 4 friends, and I did our best to blend in....meaning.....we walked on the streets and sidewalks, we took pictures and videos, we ate, we drank, we fished, we bought toys, and we spent hours meandering around Kawagoe soaking in all the festival had to offer. This is the point where I will step aside and let the remaining pictures and videos give you the multi dimensional view of it all.........(this blog and the ones following). -

On to Sunday and Monday. We knew our trip to Japan would not be complete without an encounter with Mt. Fuji (Fuji-san) so we traveled 2 hours outside of Tokyo to the quaint and beautiful town of Hakone. Staying on the picturesque Lake Ashi, we thrilled in the opportunity to fill our lungs with the clean air of the country side, our minds with the slower pace of life, and our bodies with the comfort of real beds (after living in Tokyo for over a month you have a much greater appreciation for these things).

With a travelers pass that allowed us to take boats, cable cars, buses, and rope ways (not to mention our aching feet), we traversed all over Hakone witnessing the spectacles it had to offer. I will give you a interlude into what we experienced and let the pictures do the rest.

1. Fields of sulfur hot springs

2. Amazing views of Mt. Fuji

3. Black hard boiled eggs

4. Open Air Museums

5. Original Picasso art work

6. Wooden igloos field with colorful, climbable nets

7. Sculptures from world famous artists

8. Greenery as far as the eye could see

9. Pirate ships and pirates

10. Natural steam baths

It was a weekend that we would have happily turned into a week.....but alas, we have practice again today and another chance to improve our soccer skills with the most talented players in Japan coming off a big 1-0 win. Off we go!

Replays

2009-10-14T15:03:00.006+09:00

Pictures (for further background see blog: The Facts of Life):

1. Fish at the Yoyogi Park picnic - yummy and no eyeballs!

2. Rebecca at the Yoyogi Park Meiji Shrine - dedicated to the last emperor

3. Woman stretching on the train - good form

4. Yoyogi Park lawns - so serene

5. Yoyogi Park rose gardens - roses are red

Video:

Soccer jugglers in Yoyogi Park

The Facts of Life

2009-10-14T13:08:00.007+09:00

Pictures: Trendy pups, sunsets, and picnics in Yoyogi park - -

"Fake it until you make it" -

This is exactly what ran through my head (literally) after I got my new rock star haircut. With Becca back home on strict bed rest due to her battle with an unknown parasite living in her stomach and kept company by a very good book and Japanese cartoons on repeat, it was my duty to go explore the wilder side of Tokyo for the both of us. (-)

The party started last Friday with a trip to a Pachinko parlor in Shinjuku with my friend Lynn. How to describe Pachinko? First, think of a large complex lined by Japanese slot machines that emit continuous, loud, and obnoxious noises. Second, imagine that complex filled with the stench of cigarette smoke. Third, picture people sitting immediately in front of these machines, staring into them. Lasty, imagine these people operating a mechanical hand wheel that steers tiny, silver, metal balls through a maze like structure filled with obstacles, trying to somehow get these balls to land in specific zones to win them prizes. Now, who wants to play?! I did, so in went an 100 yen coin (yes, I am not a big spender) and out pops 50 shiny balls. After 5 minutes of gazing into the machine and still having no idea what to do with each ball, I begin to turn this magical handle and surprise surprise, the balls begin to shoot down the obstacle course missing every winning zone possible. 50 balls in about 50 seconds, I had lost, and all I could show for my 100 yen effort was pure confusion, a dangerously high heart rate, and clothes that stank of old chimneys....but....the delight and laughter that erupted from my teammates at the thought of my dumbfounded attempts at finding lady luck.....priceless! (-)

On to Saturday. After a long practice in the morning I headed to Yoyogi Park to meet up with some friends to have a picnic. Yoyogi park is now my favorite place in Tokyo. I would compare it to Venice Beach in Los Angeles. People of all races, ages, ethnicity's, sexes, religions, and interests seamlessly coming together in one location. You have punk rockers, skate boarders, musicians, sports aficionados, jugglers, performers, loungers, dog walkers, Frisbee throwers, runners, walkers, actors, people watchers......endless hours of free entertainment within gorgeous lawns of green grass, rose gardens, spouting fountains, and lakes. My picnic alone was evidence of the eclectiveness of the Yoyogi Park population. We had friends of all backgrounds: Japanese, Swiss, Swedish, British, French, American, Brazilian, and German speaking various languages and eating foods from all over the world. The weather was spectacular and the company even more incredible.

After about 2 hours in the park, I thought it best to travel home to rest up for my long awaited Saturday night. Ever since I have gotten to Tokyo, I have made a list of things that I must do. Going to Japans largest club (and rumored to be the largest club in Asia) was on that list....fake it until you make it.....I was on schedule to be a rock star for the night. The destination, Ageha, a dance club in the Eastern part of Tokyo. The performer, Paul Van Dyk, one of the world's top house DJ's. The time frame, 9:30pm until at least 5:30am when the trains start running again.

9:30pm, my friends and I meet in Shibuya, best known for being the social scene for foreigners that take residence in Japan. With a group of about 7 of us we toured around Shibuya bumping into new friends, visiting the nightlife hot spots, and taking in the energy of a city that had come alive. Although I often feel unique as a foreigner playing for a Japanese soccer team, in Shibuya, I felt anything but. You couldn't turn your head without spotting someone of a foreign background and you couldn't escape the sound of the English language being spoken all around you. A difference from my daily routine that truly made me realize Tokyo's international appeal.

We boarded a bus around 12:30am that would take us directly to the club. Sitting next to my friend Lee (originally from Taiwan but now lives in Japan) and our new friend Andy (from England) we watched on screen, video clips from previous parties at Ageha. As we sat discussing the fun that lay ahead, we drove over the Rainbow Bridge and past Odaiba Beach and its massive mall complete with simulated sunsets and ferris wheels.

We arrived at the club around 1am. The club was, to say the least, large. There was one main dance floor below the DJ stage. Two large video screens, lasers, fog machines, and hundreds of people dancing. Outside, there were two other dance floors, one located next to a pool and the other next to a garden. Inside, it was dark, with the only light projecting over the dance floor hailing from video screens, lasers, and glow sticks. Paul Van Dyk came on at 3am. Inside and outside, everyone danced....until the wee hours of the morning to the heart thumping songs that only a world class DJ could mix. Russians, Brazilians, Americans, Japanese, Canadians, people from any and every nation all under one roof.

I felt like a rock star, and at 6:30am after dancing poolside as the sun rose over Tokyo, I decided my legs had had enough. Tired, exhilarated, and extremely content, I said goodbye to my friends and boarded the train home to get some much needed rest.

On to Sunday. Becca had won the parasite war and was feeling better than she had in days. We had to celebrate. We thought of no better way than to spend the next 2 days relaxing in various parks (Toyosu and Yoyogi), attending our friends rock concert in Shibuya, and learning many new things about Tokyo that we would like to share with you......

1. Japan is so trendy that even the dogs here dress better than we do. For example, dogs don scarfs, skirts, t-shirts, and best of all....side ponytails! (see picture)

2. Space is of a premium in Tokyo (large dogs just don't fit in) and so the American norm of men walking rottweilers and pit bulls just does not exist here. With that being said, it is not uncommon to see men walking high priced toy poodles in trendy clothes.

3. The sun rises very early in Japan. Around 5:15am.

4. The sun sets very early in Japan. Around 5:15pm.

5. Watching the sunrise and set in the same day makes you feel incredibly alive.

6. There is no daylight savings time.

7. Baskin Robbins has only 16 flavors of ice cream.

8. Streching on the train using the handrails can look really funny (see picture on next blog)

Back on Track

2009-10-13T13:10:00.008+09:00

I must apologize for my blogging absence. I have been recovering from an evil sickness since last Tuesday and did not have the energy to write until now. For the last six days I have been reduced to riding the couch, reading books, watching Japanese cartoons with subtitles, sleeping long, restless nights, and making many trips back and forth from the bathroom. Needless to say, there is little worth sharing about my experience, so I will spare you any of the detail. Let me instead take you back to the two days before I came down with the most evil, non-swine flu (I know this because I got tested) virus I've ever had to fight (I lost many battles, but I think I have finally won the war). -

Joanna left you on Sunday night with two plugs, one for the most incredible pizza in Tokyo, and one for her amazing rock star haircut (thanks to teammate Toyoda). Let me elaborate. -

We usually have Mondays off from soccer, so by Tuesday we have already begun planning for the following Monday. We love our days of soccer and lessons learned on the field, but there is something special about a day off in a foreign country where your stay is finite and the number of opportunities to see and do things is fixed. So, this Monday we had plans to meet Kelly for dinner somewhere in Tokyo that we had never been before. We picked Naka-Megura. It was a new part of town, and it was where Joanna's haircut would later take place. -

Kelly met us at the metro around 5:00pm, plenty of time to walk around, catch-up, and have a nice meal before Joanna's haircut at 8:00pm. We agreed it would be best to locate the salon first just to make sure we knew where it was. Then we could eat dinner carefree. It was a rainy night in Tokyo, and the sun set around 5:30, so after a coffee at Starbucks, we began our salon search in the cold, wet, dark streets of Naka-Meguro.

With a hand-sketched map drawn by Jo and three fully functioning brains, we set out in search of the salon in the complete wrong direction. And, by complete wrong direction, I mean we left the metro walking a full 180 degrees away from the salon. After a few short turns, we realized our mistake and made a few more turns to get back on track, or so we thought. Now pointed only 90 degrees in the wrong direction we were getting closer. A few more twists and turns and we headed back to the metro to reorient ourselves and to start again. -

This time we used the landmarks on Jo's map to point ourselves in the complete opposite direction from the way we first set out, and we were now sure we were headed in the right direction. We walked and walked, encouraging ourselves with statements like, "maybe it's on this street up here," or "if we just go a little farther, I bet we'll find it." The neighborhood was becoming more and more residential, which isn't always a thing of significance in Japan. Stores and restaurants often appear mixed in with houses, and this fact only added to our uncertainty about whether or not we were headed in the right direction.

"Sumimasen," we were back at the metro, map in hand, asking a stranger to show us the way. He pointed on the big map to the place we needed to go. We had been right (the third time), and we set out retracing our steps yet again. Forty five minutes of circling and re circling, we finally stood looking into the salon. It was 6:45. We had worked up quite an apatite. And having walked by "the best pizza parlor in Tokyo" twice as we circled Naka-Meguro train station looking for the salon, we headed there once again. This time to eat.

Ironically, as we walked away from the salon, a nice woman speaking perfect English asked if we were lost and if she could help us. We looked at each other dumb founded, looked back at the woman, and said thank you, but no thank you, we had just found what we were looking for. Laughing to ourselves we asked the rhetorical, "Where was she 44 minutes ago when we really needed her?"

The pizza parlor didn't disappoint, and we relaxed our wandering legs over slices of sausage and mushroom pizza and margherita pizza. At about ten minutes to 8:00pm we wrapped up dinner, said farewell to Kelly, and started back for the salon. -

The salon closed at 8:00pm. Our teammate, Toyoda, had arranged with her friend, Shimoji, to cut Joanna's hair for free after the salon had closed. Shimoji was in training to become a hair dresser. She was polite and friendly, welcoming us to the salon, taking our wet jackets, umbrellas, and backpacks from us as we came in. We sat for a few minutes before Shimoji came back to find out what kind of haircut Joanna wanted. Knowing very little Japanese, we knew this inevitable question was not going to be easy to answer, so we came prepared. -

Folded in Joanna's pocket was a note laboriously written by Mai and Ganchan the night before. Sitting, legs crossed, on the display window outside UniQlo, Mai and Ganchan had listened closely to exactly what kind of haircut Joanna wanted, and had painstakingly written it down on a small piece of paper. At the top of which, Joanna had them write the most important instruction, "I want to be a rock star." Taking this paper out of her pocket Joanna, smiling, handed it to Shimoji, who nodded enthusiastically. We tried to mention a few American rock stars to help illustrate Joanna's desires, but we are not sure whether this part of the message ever got across.

As Joanna moved from the hair washing station to the chair where, figuratively speaking, "all the magic happens", we were excited by a surprise visit from Toyoda and her two friends. They were all three going out to dinner to eat Japanese stew with Shimoji after Joanna's haircut. With four chairs assembled in a semi-circle around Joanna and Shimoji, Toyoda, her two friends, and I watched each cut of Joanna's hair. And, as her hair started to take shape, I encouraged Shimoji with words of affirmation like, "sugoi", "rock star", and accompanied by affirming gestures like the universally understood "thumbs up" and big toothy smile. -

When the whole production was over, Joanna looked like a rock star, and the six of us took pictures to document the event. We thanked Toyoda, Shimoji, and the other girls, and we headed home for the night.

Typhoon Melor

2009-10-08T13:45:00.006+09:00

Pictures: Eating Sashimi at an Izikaya in Shinbashi

- -

As I mentioned in my last blog, we have officially extended our stay here in Japan until November 22nd. We were wondering how Tokyo would respond to this fantastic news. Would they throw us a swank party? Would there be a parade down main street? Would we get awarded the key to the city from the Mayor? Nope....they did something even bigger......they gave us our first Typhoon by the name of Melor!

Living on the 32nd floor next to the water has many, many perks, but Typhoon winds is not one of them. We get woken up by violent gusts of wind whistling by our door like a steam whistle, and we no longer dare to put anything on our balcony for fear it will blow over the edge. We have taken to drying our clothes inside because the force of the wind coupled with heavy amounts of rain for the past three days has left us with no other choice. -

Although we sense the worst of it is over, since the sun is now shining and there is no visible damage, we are a little disconcerted by the voice of a strange man delivering, what I am sure is, an important message over the loud speaker in our apartment (this just happened). Of course, we can't understand his message; Taejo is long gone to China; and, there is a good chance that as I write this blog we should be evacuating the building. Until I hear a knock on the door, I will keep writing.... -

Melor has kept us water logged as of late, but we still have plenty to catch you up on, including many more Tokyo firsts.... -

1. Eating raw chicken - I guess this is quite normal here in Tokyo, but when the waiter brought out a plate of raw chicken sashimi, we must admit we were a little taken aback. Luckily, our couchsurfing friends who we had met for dinner in Shinbashi, assured us that it was a very tasty Japanese delicacy. As our dining mates dove in with chopsticks, we couldn't help but join in the fun, experiencing for ourselves this interesting dish. I can now say from personal experience that raw chicken tastes like.....well....chicken.

2. Uniclo - The ever popular Japanese version of Old Navy. It was a necessary trip for Rebecca and I ever since extending our stay. Our current wardrobe consists of what amounts to be, by Tokyo standards..."Summer clothes". Tanktops, shorts, t-shirts, light weight jackets, clothes most of our teammates were wearing back in the heart of the summer (June). It would not be a normal week if we didn't walk into the locker room prior to practice to at least three questions of whether or not we are "samui", only to assure them that us Americans have a slightly warmer temperature gauge. Never the less, in preparation for the fall season, we had to bite the bullet and expand our ever so small wardrobe. - This is where I must pause and give a bit more background detail. If you spent even just a few days in Tokyo, you would realize that it is covered with shops of all the top designers and name brands. It is difficult to walk down the street without running into a Gucci, Pucci, or Tiffany's. The shops come in all shapes and sizes from large department stores to little boutiques and they all have one thing in common. They are expensive (as is most of Tokyo).

Wanting to stay up with the latest trends (flannel is so in here), yet not break the bank, we asked our friends for an appropriate place to open the dressing room doors and therefore our wallets. The definitive answer, UNICLO!, the reasons for which are twofold. One, the prices are reasonable. Two, they carry sizes for "bigger" people, a category we are solidly a part of here in Tokyo. Rebecca and I weigh at least 5kg more than the average member of Beleza, and the average member of Beleza weighs at least 5kg more than a typical Japanese woman. An interesting phenomenon for us, and now we think we know how Abby (Wambach, of course) must feel on the field with us.

So after another relaxing trip to the Japanese bath house, the Tako Tomodachi's took an adventure to Shinjuku to the grand opening of Uniclo.

It was a massive store (5 floors) filled to the gills with fall fashion. Everything was on sale. We arrived around 9:15pm which did not leave us much time to shop since the store closed at 10:00pm. We knew our mission, however, and that was to find flannel! The choices were plentiful and for a very reasonable price (990 yen which is about $10). With the help of GanChan and Mai, we tried on various colors and sizes before settling on two different light blue tops that go well with our blue eyes and blond hair (mine is now light brown...more on that in the next blog). We also had enough money on us to buy a zip up sweat shirt from the kids section...ha. Inspired by our purchases, and craving more Uniclo (we had to leave things behind since we did not come prepared to shop... it seems no one in Japan uses credit cards, so we left ours at home) we will have to come back again soon.

3. Japanese haircuts - The last of my blond locks is gone....Becca will expand more on this and provide video footage. -

4. Visit to Nakameguro - We once again had the pleasure of spending time with Kelly and eating what may be considered the best pizza in Tokyo! Hand off to Becca on this one also.

The Unbeaten Path

2009-10-07T13:30:00.003+09:00

The most wonderful part of life is leaving the house in the morning not knowing what you will learn, what you will see, what you will experience, or who you will meet. Our time in Japan is a great example of this, and I owe it all to Rebecca. It was her dream to come to Tokyo to train with the best players, and to surround herself in an environment where you can't help but get better. Everywhere you look you see someone doing something you have never seen before. Your mind is wide awake and constantly trying to make sense of the world around you. It is Rebecca's constant search for knowledge that I admire so much. Trust me, Japan is not a place you come to get a confidence boost in your soccer skills (at least for me). Similar to what Rebecca expressed in her latest blog, I have also spent my entire life dedicated to this beautiful game, which I thought I was mastering. I played for the youth national teams, the full national team. I've traveled all across the world playing with and against some of the best players ever to play womens soccer. I did this with the support of my family, driving me up and down the East coast to different tournaments, picking me up after work from late soccer practices, and placing me on the best teams. Their constant encouragement pushed me to get better, and most importantly, to love the process of getting better. They instilled in me their incredible work ethic, where the idea of giving anything less than your best was considered sacrificing the gift one possessed. (Prefontaine) The players of Beleza have a gift. They are like artists painting on a canvas of fake grass and little rubber pellets. Everyday at practice they paint a new picture, one more amazing than the day before. The pure enjoyment in their faces when they pass out of a difficult situation or dribble past three defenders to score a goal makes our long trip worth it. We are witnessing a group of individuals so selfless that 'sorry' and 'thank you' are the most common words used in practice....they never blame...they never talk back....they perform to their best of their ability for hours and hours on end, rain or shine, early or late. They fill up their own water bottles, chase their own soccer balls, pick up their own cones, wash their own clothes, and even at times, tape their own ankles. I see now, this is why we came, to witness the game how it should be played, by individuals who play it purely out of the passion they feel for the sport. They travel hours to practice after working long days. They start practice early and stay late. They slide around the field with reckless abandon, not caring about the scrapes and bruises they're reagrivating from previous practices. They redefine the term "work ethic". The most amazing part....they do this all with the exuberance and excitement of a child just beginning to discover their love for the game. These qualities are ones that I have only witnessed in a few people outside of this experience and Rebecca is one of them. She has been defined by our Washington Freedom staff as the smartest player they have ever coached and this is for good reason. She craves to learn. She asks questions and seeks answers to become a better player. She revels at the process and not necessarily at the outcome. Her mind never stops and her analysis of the game is second to none. She is fast, both mentally and physically and her physical speed often conjures 'oohs' and 'aahs' from the team. She broke the speed record here at Beleza on her first try. Yet, she is smart enough to realize that the game is more than just speed, and so she meticulously works on her touch, her awareness, and her positioning. When I want to retreat to the sidelines to applaud the greatness unfolding in front of me, she insists on working hard enough to become a part of it, identifying and correcting mistakes along the way. It is amazing to watch her live out her dreams with the help of Beleza, to achieve that "Golden Touch" that Winston has always emphasized. She is finally surrounded by a wonderfully amazing group of individuals that share her passion for the quest of perfection, and I know she will find it. It is credit to her that the team has endorsed our staying longer in Japan, extending our trip until November 22nd. It is credit to her that Mr. Hoshikawa, Beleza head coach, has called Taejo to compliment our efforts at practice. It is credit to her that I have begun to learn Japanese...and love it. It is credit to her that we are here even after many coaches told us it was not possible or the culture shock would be too great. It is credit to her that our blog is now being translated into Japanese for all the Beleza supporters to read. And, it is credit to her that we find ourselves in the the most challenging soccer environment with the most talented players we have ever seen.

Field of Dreams

2009-10-06T12:35:00.002+09:00

After arriving in Japan almost one month ago, I expected some of my initial culture and soccer shock to wear off. Everything that once took me far outside my comfort zone would melt away, and just become a part of my daily routine. Or at least, that is what I thought would happen, and for some things it has proven true. For instance, I no longer think about riding the trains, or the sound of Japanese being spoken all around me. Eating foods I can't recognize doesn't phase me, and asking for help from people unlikely to know the answer in English is no big deal anymore. However, Japanese soccer and Beleza soccer more specifically, still keeps me up at night. I've spent my whole life playing soccer, or at least, as far back as I can remember this is true. I grew up in NY, in a small town called Larchmont. Soccer was common, but that's all it was, common. Everyone played, but no one played well. Don't get me wrong. There were standouts, or at least, there were people everyone thought were standouts. I know because I was one of them. However, I had to leave Larchmont to find out what a standout soccer player really looked like, and I certainly wasn't one of them. I was the quintessential big fish in a very, very, very small pond. I was twelve or thirteen years old at the time. I had been playing soccer for five or six years already. Leaving Larchmont seemed like a colossal decision, and later it proved to be exactly that. It took me five years and three teams to finally realize just how big that first decision really was, so let me try to explain. Larchmont was fun. The girls were great. I had my first experience with being a part of team. We won our league every year, and I loved it. I thought we were a really good team, but there were so many things I didn't know. In Larchmont, we never competed for state championships. I didn't know there were state championships. We went away to tournaments, and we even traveled far enough to stay in hotels overnight. The whole team would travel packed into team vans with four girls sleeping in each hotel room, and it sure seemed like a big deal to me. I was eleven years old, and I had no idea there were thousands of tournaments all across the country, with the best tournaments reserved for the most competitive team, of which Larchmont was not one. I don't mean to beat, batter, and bash my childhood soccer experience, but hindsight is 20/20, and I didn't happen to grow up in one of the powerhouse soccer communities of Long Island, Southern Maryland, Northern Virginia, or Southern California, just to name a few. Nor were my parents big sports people. This statement needs clarifying. My parents are very active, healthy, and sports friendly people, but neither one played competitive sports, and they don't have a favorite football team, basketball team, baseball team, tennis player, golfer, swimmer, or gymnast. I didn't grow up watching pro sports, and although my brother, sister, and I were all enrolled in youth sports programs, the idea of excelling at anything other than school was never part of the equation. Thankfully, working hard and having fun, two points my parents often hammered home, certainly applied to soccer and were instrumental in my soccer development. In light of my parents' inexperience with competitive sports and their strong focus on academics, they supported me and my soccer development in every way they knew how. That's why when a local Jamaican soccer coach, Winston Buddle, insisted that I train with him and his boys teams, my parents agreed to drive me wherever I needed to be whenever I needed to be there. It was their decision to open this door for me that that gave me the opportunity to become the player I am today. And it because of a long line of similar decisions that I am now in Japan trying to become the best soccer player I can be. When I was ten, my parents brought me to Winston, and Winston brought me soccer. He taught me skill, and he gave me passion. He told my parents I had to leave Larchmont if I wanted to become a true soccer player. They listened. Later, when it was time to change teams again, it was Winston who told my parents they had to drive me to Long Island to play for Paul Riley (now the coach of the Philadelphia Charge) if I wanted to play soccer at the highest level. They listened. Now that I am an adult, it is still Winston that I go to for training and feedback when I am in NY or need soccer advise. And, I listen. In Japan, when I am floored by the level of play and the skills of the players around me, it is Winston that I think of as I remember the things he said to me as a child. He used the phrase "Golden Touch" to describe expert soccer skill. It is the most important facet of the game, and it is how Winston determined the value of a player. Here in Japan, the Beleza players have redefined "Golden Touch" for me. They have painted a picture to go alone with Winston's word. "Golden Touch" is not an unattainable level of perfection. It is real, and the Beleza players are masters. Smooth with the ball, controlling it out of the air effortlessly, and dictating the rhythm of the game instinctively, the Beleza players inspire me with their style and creativity. At night, I lay in bed reliving their touches on the ball and the standout moments from practice earlier that day. I can't sleep. I am too excited. I want to learn as much as I can while I'm here. I want to play the way Beleza plays, and I want to control the ball, the opponent, and the outcome of the game the way they seem to control all of these things. It is a beautiful style of soccer, and I have so much to work on. I will end here, but before I do, Jo and I wrote a list of our goals in soccer while we are here in Japan. We would like to share them with you, and since many of them overlap I will compose just one list, but it is a collaborative effort. (1) First touch:

move to the ball, and with the ball
move the ball purposefully

(2) Awareness:

note where opponents and teammates are around you
note where the space is around you
read the game to maximize time and space
awareness increases your ability to both keep possession and be dangerous

(3) Body Positioning:

keep your body between the defender and the ball, shielding the ball from the opponent thereby creating time for the play to develop
body positioning affects your ability to watch the field and can improve awareness
defensively - work hard to be within tackling distance of the player you are marking on the other team

(4) Speed of Play:

making decisions faster and moving with the ball and without the ball
analyzing the game and making quicker decisions gives you more time
the faster you play the harder it is for the opponent to react and stop you
it allows you to exploit the other team before they can adjust defensively

This list is always evolving, and we will keep you posted.

Buddhaliscious

2009-10-02T14:11:00.006+09:00

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

... I don't think your ready for his belly

... I don't think your ready for this .... cause his body's to Buddhaliscious for you babe.

My appropriate shout out to our favorite Buddha, Diabutsu and of course, Beyonce, who will be in concert in Tokyo next month. If I didn't already witness her Divaness in Baltimore a few months back (thanks Val for the best night of my life), I would be a guaranteed attendant. DO NOT count me out, however, since I still may try to bedazzle my way into the first row and back stage with all my Single Ladies! Stay tuned ....

I will pick up where Rebecca left off ..... our educational stay at Mai's house in Chiba. We awoke to a similar scenario that we found the night previous. A very tasty traditional Japanese breakfast that included a number of new foods. The only problem? We only had one hour to eat, shower, change, and get ourselves to the train station or else we would miss our date with Diabutsu, our 121 ton Buddha friend in Kamakura.

First things first, we eat! We feasted on salmon, rice, spinach, miso soup, roots of different varieties, eggplant, cucumber, and an interesting egg souffle of sorts that may not make our top food list (think salty egg pudding .... we will probably leave that breakfast treat in Japan).

Eat: Check!

Next, we shower. Imagine a cute, small bathroom with 4 girls all trying to get ready at the same time. We officially recorded the fastest shower times in history and spitting in the kitchen sink is now permitted. Thank god we are not high maintenance females.

Shower: Check!

Change: Check! (That all happened in the same bathroom where we were showering, brushing our teeth, and washing our face .... pretty incredible)

Next, we book it to the train. This is where the morning reached its true comic hysteria. In order to reach the train we all had to sprint through an underground shopping complex filled with daily shoppers. If you know anything about train etiquette in Japan , it is taboo to rush for trains. Rebecca and I, however, make our living doing this. On most days we are the only ones but this day was not most days and following suit, we weren't running alone. As Gan Chan , Rebecca, Mai, and I were sprinting past the underground food shops and clothing stores, one woman kept pace next to us.

It was as if we were running the steeple chase in the Olympics. We had to jump over shopping carts, avoid food stands, spin around innocent bystanders. Luckily, the tako tomodachi are all well trained athletes so this was a race we were well prepared for. For our mysterious running partner, however, this was not the case ... she made one false step and BOOM !.... she smacks right into a nice old man, who immediately turns into a mean old man, screaming at the top of his lungs, obviously airing his displeasure at the situation. In the midst of all this action, Gan Chan proceeds to drop her underwear in the middle of the shopping center. With the grace of a true Olympian, she sweeps it up and continues on pace with the rest, never missing a step.

Laughing, sweating, and panting we make the train.

Train: Check!

Feeling so accomplished already and it was only 11am we ride the train with ear to ear grins as we look forward to meeting our friends for a fun day in Kamakura.

When we reach Kamakura, we were met by our team trainer, Shimichan and teammate, Yayoi. The six of us perused the streets of Kamakura eating all the Japanese delicacies. This included, octopus balls (basically octopus and vegetables surrounded by a tasty filled pastry ), ice cream, cookies, Japanese chips, and Becky's Donuts (this one needs a little more explanation: first off, our team calls Rebecca, Becky, since I guess that is easier to say than Becca .... bygones ... ... and the Japanese LOVE donuts. Krispee Kreme is known to have 3 hour lines on any given day .... don't ask me why).

[We can't emphasize enough how well we are taken care of. The entire day our teammates were very adamant that we were their guests, meaning, we don't pay. This didn't just include food, but also small gifts to serve as memories from our trip to Japan and charms to forever connect us as friends.]

. After eating, our next favorite activity is to document this entire trip in photographs. Each member of the group has their own camera and everything, and I mean everything, needs to be documented ...... shopping, walking down streets, sitting outside temples, riding trains, eating food, talking, not talking .... welcome to the first ever Kamakura photo shoot. Our very own version of America's Next Top Model: Tokyo Style!!! (ANTM). .

Location 1: The streets of Kamakura - theme: I'm a tourist! Location 2: A temple in Kamakura (forget the name ... but it seemed very important and it is really fun to sneak behind the American tour guides to get the historical background .... although sneaking is quite hard when you are wearing a Japan head band .... ah well) - theme: spiritual oneness

Location 3: Trolley Trains - theme: Intrepid travelers

Location 4: Japanese Dessert and Tea houses - theme: Sweet tooth

Location 5: Diabutsu (the second largest Buddha in Japan. It weighs 121 tons and is 13.4 meters high) - theme: Buddhaliscious

Location 6: The Ocean - theme: Pacific Waters (swim suit edition)

As you can imagine, there were probably over 200 photos taken throughout the day and while I don't have the final prints (we are under contract with the Japan version of Covergirl so they own the rights), I have attempted to attach a sneak preview. Please do not distribute these and we will be sure to bring home the Japanese Covergirl for all to see. Tyra Banks would be so proud.

Tako Tomodachi

2009-09-30T19:04:00.008+09:00

Left: Gan-Chan teaches Jo how to honor Mai's late Grandmother with a prayer and the burning of incense.

_ _ _

______

Good morning Tokyo!

First some updates.

Lost In Translation: Top Janglish Quotes:

(1)

The backdrop: All week we had been looking forward to going to Mai's house for a traditional Japanese dinner, sleepover, and breakfast. On Saturday night we receive the following email from Mai:

Tomorrow, I prepare your roomwears! You don't have to bring them. I will take pleasure your visiting very much!! From MAI

I read the email. I thought about it for a moment. I couldn't come up with a translation for roomwears, and I started to wonder. Is there some traditional item or clothing that Japanese have that we don't have in the US ? It sure seemed possible. I called Jo over to take a look at the email. She read it and looked up at me just as perplexed. We laughed a little, and I decided to forward the email to Sawa for an expert translation and some etiquette advice.

Ten minutes later I get a phone call from Sawa. I think there is a little laughter in her voice, but I'm not positive. She tells me, "roomwears means pajamas." I say, "OK, and thanks for your help . "

The next day at practice I find out Sawa didn't know what roomwears was either, and that's because Mai and her mom looked up pajamas in the dictionary and the closest thing they could find was," roomwears ". Sawa had to call Mai to ask her what she meant. Then she called me with the answer. That's why she was laughing, and when Mai came over apologizing for using the word "roomwears", we all had a good laugh.

After, Sawa wished Jo and I luck on our Japanese sleepover and told us NOT to call her if we needed any help. Isn't she sweet!

(2)

"Wait, I have dictionary." Almost always accompanied by a hand gesture and some enthusiastic head nodding, this is Gan-Chan's tag line. We hear it many times a day, and thankfully because there are often conversations that can't be finished without a little outside help. Luckily, Gan-Chan always has her dictionary, and it's not just your standard dictionary either. It's actually the "mack-daddy" of all dictionaries.

If you just looked at it, you would think it was a mini-computer with a soft carrying case. You can type words in both Japanese-romaji (roman alphabet - very necessary for Japanese beginners like us) and Japanese-characters (for the native speaker). It has audio capability complete with proper pronunciation for words, expressions, and whole sentences. The voice can speak in five different speeds, the slower speeds help with pronunciation, and the faster speeds help the listener get used to how a native speaker actually sounds. Needless to say, this dictionary has saved many conversations, and we love hearing Gan-Chan say, "Wait, I have dictionary."

(3)

What do the Japanese do on a sleepover? The same thing Americans do, of course. Eat dinner, hang out, and watch a movie. It was great (more about dinner and hanging out later). The movie was called Hula Girls, and it was a Japanese original with English subtitles for our benefit. The story was about a young girl growing up in a coal mining village, during a time when coal was becoming obselete. Men were being laid off from the mines. There were no other jobs in town, and everyone was in an uproar over what to do next. The main character skips school and defies her mother's wishes in order to train to be a hula dancer. The rest of the movie is about her struggle to to learn to dance and to bring Hawaii to the cold, coal mining town she grew up in.

It was a great story, and the subtitles were awesome. Joanna and I used the subtitles to expand our Japanese vocabulary with some important words and sayings. For instance, Joanna's favorite expression, "Odoritai!" In English, "I want to dance! "When you can't communicate with the people around you, it really helps to have a sense of humor. Joanna often uses this expression at random, miss-timed moments, bringing on a roar of laughter. Another expression," Ikuzo! " , meaning, "Let's go!" Said with an exorbitant amount of enthusiasm, "Ikuzo!", can also bring down the house. A few other expressions we've found particularly useful:

"Inakamono" --- Country bumpkin.

"Iitaikoto ga arunara itteyo!" --- If you have a problem, say it to my face!

"Bakkajoyanaino!" --- Unbelievable!

(4)

Tako Tomodachis: The nickname for our group of four people that together have eight arms just like an octopus. Joanna and I started using the expression, "octopus party" (said with our best impression of a Japanese accent it sounds more like octopus pati) , to describe our time hanging out with Gan-Chan and Mai. They have been so helpful and kind to us, and we have a great time hanging out with them on our days off from soccer. They love practicing their English with us, and we love practicing our Japanese with them. We have a great friendship.

This weekend on our sleepover at Mai's house, the expression evolved into, "tako tomodachis", which in Janglish means, "octopus friends". It is an affectionate term, and we use it often to convey that we appreciate them and they are special to us. It is funny all the different ways we have learned to communicate verbal and emotional messages with such a limited vocabulary.

The Sleepover:

Now that I've shared some of the funny moments with you, let me paint a more complete picture of our sleepover at Mai's house. After practice on Sunday (we were at the field for six full hours), the tako tomodachis headed to Mai's house (affectionately called, Mai Chome, same idea as Gan-Chan Chome from the previous blogs). As we entered her house we were given slippers to wear inside. We met Mai's parents in the living room and kitchen area, introducing ourselves in Japanese . We can't say much, but we were excited to be there, and we smiled and nodded a lot to show our enthusiasm.

Mai's mother, Okaasan, which is the Japanese word for mother, had been cooking all day in preparation for our visit. This was our first authentic Japanese dinner, complete with chopsticks, tatami floors, bento boxes, and Asahi (Japanese beer). It was a feast, and you have to excuse me because I don't remember the names of everything we ate. I will try to describe it anyway.

We started with udon noodle salad with fresh seared tuna. Then we had fried and breaded shrimp, chicken, and squid; followed by seared eggplant with a distinctly Japanese taste; sesame flavored roots; potato, carrot, noodle, and beef brisket stew; soft tofu soup (impossible to pick up with chopsticks); and delicious sashimi on a bed of cabbage. I'm sure I am forgetting something. There was food everywhere and endless new things to try.

Her mother didn't eat with us because she was too busy cooking and preparing the food in the kitchen. She would come into the room with a new dish, and together she, Mai and Gan-Chan would explain what it was. She would stay until we had our first bight. We would look up and say, "oishi", which means delicious, and then she would disappear back into the kitchen to get the next dish together. It was, hands down, the most extravagant and delicious meal we've had in Japan, and the company was incredible as usual.

Because Mai's father was sick he sat in the adjoining room, and only occasionally joined the conversation through Mai and her Mom. He often came to the edge of the room to take pictures, which he later printed for us as a gift to take home. After dinner Mai's Mom opened the presents we had brought from the US, and we all moved cheerily into the living room to eat desert, drink coffee, and watch Hula Girls.

As we relaxed in our "roomwears", watching the Japanese movie, occasionally laughing as we taught each other new Japanese and English expressions, I felt very at home in this foreign country. I am not looking forward to the end of our trip, and I'm becoming more and more aware that our time here is finite.

To FC Tokyoooo and beyond!

2009-09-30T15:05:00.007+09:00

First, a little background information: My sister, Sarah, just started law school this fall. It's a place known for sleepless nights and grueling academic work. The first year is supposed to be the hardest, and no one is said to enjoy it. I think the closest thing my sister has to a social life is a few short coffee breaks during the day, a minimally social study group at night, and the time she spends keeping in touch with her boyfriend back in Mexico. This might not appeal to you, or to me for that matter, but if you know my sister at all, then you know she's loving it, and she's already proving to be good at it too. Sarah's always been a very serious person. She loves school and works hard. She gives up all her free time for an endless list of selfless causes, and I think one day she really might save the world. That's Sarah now, but back in high school, she had more free time, and she filled it with an amazing group of wildly entertaining and fun-loving friends. There were about nine of them, and although they now live all across the globe, with no two people living in the same city, they still keep in touch. Being two years younger than my sister and her friends, I looked up to them. I watched them closely, and there is probably no one on this earth who thought they were cooler than I did. Always looking for a good time, they had a propensity for late nights and endless laughter. I admired their enthusiasm and zest for life, and I wanted to be just like them. Two years is no longer a big age gap, but I think I will always remember them with the awe of a little sister looking up. When I found out my sister's friend Olivia (half Japanese and half American) was coming to Japan for a one week vacation, I jumped at the chance to meet up with her across the planet. I hadn't seen Olivia in at least two years , but I remember her well for her adventurous spirit and excitable nature. I imagined all the endless fun we could have together, and I couldn't wait to see her. We exchanged a few emails and our Japanese phone numbers, but it wasn't long before I realized it wasn't going to be so easy to meet up with her. I play soccer all evening and into the night, and she goes out to see friends late at night and into the morning. We both sleep until lunchtime and then get up to do it all again. It made me wonder about all the fun I was missing while she was out making friends and dancing the night away. I guess I never grew up to be just like my sister or her friends. I chose my own path, and that is why I'm in Japan in the first place. I play soccer, and I'm here to learn from Sawa and her teammates . So, despite tempting invitations to fun clubs and dance parties, we settled on a plan to meet at the FC Tokyo game Saturday night. Having seen how enthusiastic the Beleza women's fans were, I was excited to meet the J-League fans at the FC Tokyo game. Neither FC Tokyo nor their fans left me disappointed. Beating Iwata 3-2 in injury time on a header goal from a late substitute, FC Tokyo did their part. Their fans went crazy, and so did I. From the first whistle, the game was back and forth, o-1, 1-1, 1-2, 2-2, and finally 3-2. The stands were electric with energy. The fans booed players when they passed back to the goalkeeper and when, under pressure from the other team, they turned the ball over. They heckled theIwata players when they fouled the home team, and they disagreed outwardly with the referee's calls against FC Tokyo. Although we were seated in a more tame section of the stands, we watched the tried and true FC Tokyo fans as they waved huge team banners, sported the jerseys of their favorite players, and cheered continuously until the game was well past over. It was a great game, and they had every right to be enthusiastic, or so we thought. Later, however, we found out that the game didn't even count for anything.FC Tokyo was already safely in 6th place and guaranteed a playoff bid. Iwata, On the other hand, was seeded below 8th place with no chance of making the playoffs. All that excitement and energy for a game that didn't even count! I wish we could bring some of those cheering, chanting, soccer enthusiasts back to the US. It would be great for the sport, and it's so much fun to be a part of when you're in the stands. You just can't help cheering with them. "FC Tokyoooooooo"

VIPeas

2009-09-26T19:57:00.005+09:00

This is incredibly exciting ...... I was able to upload some video footage from the most recent Beleza game. It has absolutely nothing to do with what I am about to write and it is extremely out of place in our chronological order of blogs but this inaugural video has monumental implications. Not only will you be able to live our Tokyo adventure through our still words and pictures but now .... drum roll please .... streaming video. Woohooo!!!!

OK, now on with the show. Although it is Monday night here in Tokyo and we had a full 2 days of crazy Tokyo times, I am going to break blog common law and take you way back to Wednesday night because it is just too good not to.

The Scene: Saitama Arena, Tokyo. Wednesday, September 24th

The Players: Jo, Becca, Sawa, Tom, Roland, The Black Eyed Peas (also known as BEP's), and 20,000 screaming Japanese Black Eyed Pea fans.

The Backdrop: We were asked by Sawa to attend the concert the week before, and if you know Sawa, every invitation comes with very little pomp, circumstance and very little information. With that being said, we never really know exactly what we may be getting ourselves into. I will paint a picture....For example, what we think is an invitation to a simple birthday dinner is, in actuality, Rebecca and I severely under dressed as we meet many of Sawa's famous friends in a cool, hole in the wall bar in Rippongi while watching karaoke on a big screen into the late hours of the night (happened last week). Sawa is extremely modest and has more friends than we could ever keep track of, so, as a rule, when Sawa invites .... we just nod our heads yes. It would be a crime not to.

The Continued Backdrop (but we don't know all of this until after the night ..... and the information doesn't come from Sawa): We will be attending the concert with two of Sawa's friends, Tom and Roland. Tom has been in Japan for 20 years, has 80 successful soccer instruction schools, 15,000 students, and a plug on his own television show every morning around 7am. Roland, the tallest man in the stadium, has lived in Tokyo for 15 years working with a marketing company. Through their day jobs, both men are connected to Adidas and therefore connected to Sawa, one of Adidas' top female sponsored athletes.

The Show: We arrive at the concert around 5:30 pm. The concert starts promptly at 6:00 pm and there is no opening band (I love this about Japan). We meet Tom and Roland, two very nice individuals who hand us tickets to the club section (a pleasant surprise but not a huge surprise ... we are with Sawa) and also another green pass to go along with it. As we walk into the stadium past the crowded lines teeming with people, Tom and Roland non-chalantly mention that the passes are for backstage. Luckily, Rebecca and I are walking behind all of our companions so none of them witness both of our jaws drop to the floor when we hear the news that we would be wandering backstage after the show (once again a surprise but not a huge surprise ... we are with Sawa).

We reach our comfy seats in the club section ..... second level, first row, directly facing the stage. While the entire stadium is forced to stand to see the action, we are the masters of our domain, standing and sitting when we choose (mostly sitting ... the practices are so hard here .... we are usually exhausted and have to conserve energy for the next day).

The Black Eyed Peas put on an amazing show that includes all of their hits, psychedelic lights, detailed costumes with multiple changes, acrobatics, dancing, fergies, pumps, body shakes, lovely lady lumps, and the list goes on. The entire stadium is rocking and it truly makes you want to get out of your seat and join them. The audience hangs on their every word, their every beat, and their every mention of "Tokyo" (the BEP's speak no Japanese so the best you get is " Tokyo "... but it seems to work just fine).

Just when you thought the night couldn't get any better we feel the backstage passes burning holes in our pockets. With only a few songs left (their second encore at this point) we head down to the floor and park ourselves immediately next to the stage. It is a much different atmosphere and the sweat dripping off each fans forehead is every bit an indication of this. The BEP's are in their groove, performing their newest hit "Tonight's Gonna Be a Good Night" (please excuse me if I butchered the song name .... but that is essentially the chorus .... and now that I think about it, essentially the words to the entire song). Meanwhile, two famous Japanese boy band singers from the group SMAP (they are kind of a big deal), have seemed to find their way onto the stage . In what seems like a rock concert mixed with New Years Eve, we jump and dance to the music as streamers rain down around us, everyone thanks everyone for coming, random people are speaking into the microphone, and I swear that one of the Japanese boy band members is so drunk he almost falls over on stage ... so New Years Eve.

The concert ends for most but our excitement is only beginning. We make our way backstage to get a first hand look at the immensity of the set, its lights, and all the hard labor that goes into to taking it apart. The BEP's will be traveling to Malaysia after the show and that means that everything, and I mean everything, from the drum set to the Fergies pink high heels has to be packed and shipped within the next 3 hours. It is incredible. There are workers everywhere and as we make our way backstage we do our best to avoid tripping on wires or getting hit by falling debris.

We learn that Tom is best friends with the tour manager of the BEP's and that is how he was able to score such amazing tickets. We meet the manager, he hails from NY, and stare in amazement as dancers, band members, personal body guards , and legitimate rock stars walk all around us. Although we probably stick out like sore thumbs, we do our best to act as if we belong among them. Fergie .... no big deal .... we have Sawa =). After much schmoozing and attempts to sneak a peak into every room we decide that being a rock star or one of his or her groupies is hard work .... you sleep all day, party all night ..... umm. ... where do I sign up?

Additions to the CauSAWAnnabeher List:

1. See above ... no more explanation needed.

2. See above ... no more explanation needed.

Scenes for next blog:

FC Tokyo and J-League Men's Pro Soccer, American friends in Tokyo, Our first traditional Japanese sleep over, Massive Buddhas, Eating eyeballs, and much much more.

1, 2, 3...Sumo!

2009-09-25T12:53:00.005+09:00

Week three has already been one for the books. Tuesday we had our first Sumo experience. It was fantastical! The Japanese are petite, well dressed, healthy looking people. Sumo wrestlers, on the other hand, stand more than six feet tall, wear thick thong, diaper-like uniforms, and are hugely overweight. The contrast is dramatic.

As in most cultures, if you are looking, you can often tell athletes apart from the rest of the population. Think of a basketball player, a football player, a volleyball player, a soccer player, a jockey, or a gymnast. Maybe he or she is an athlete in a sport you do not follow, and you might not know his name or face, but if you look closely enough you can often guess he is an athlete of some kind or another. Perhaps, his stature gives him away , or it is something more subtle, like the way he dresses, talks, or walks. Whatever it may be, for a Sumo wrestler the difference is unmistakable, and it only takes one quick glance to know him apart.

Like basketball players and football players, Sumo wrestlers are big. And although it is hard to miss them, it is their traditional clothing that truly sets them apart. Customary garb includes a traditional silk robe similar to, in my untrained opinion, a masculine version of the Japanese Kimono. It is intricate, exotic, and expensive. On their feet they wear flat wooden sandals that look archaic and difficult to walk in. Before fighting there is a welcoming ceremony, where the wrestlers, facing the crowd and standing shoulder to shoulder, form a circle to greet the audience, thank everyone for their support, and pay homage to the spirit of Sumo.

For this ceremony, they also have special clothes, wearing traditional silk wraps adorned with diamonds and jewels, costing as much as $ 25,000. Behind the scenes, each wrestler has a personal hair dresser to tie his long hair into an intricate knot on top of his head. When the wrestler is not fighting he remains in his "stable" with his "stable master". The stable master is responsible for training the wrestler, and his job includes physically abusing the fighter in training to make him tougher and again before a match to get him ready fight.

As in much of Japanese culture, their is a rich history and deep commitment to tradition. Sumo wrestling follows old tradition down to the very last detail. The matches are officiated closely, and they only last about ten seconds. There are more than sixty five ways to win or lose a match, with many techniques for throwing, charging, and slapping the opponent. Some wrestlers rely on size and strength, others are smaller and quicker, and still others are craftier, using the opponent's weight and mass against him.

It is hard to grasp everything that is happening. As quick as the match starts, it is over, and for the untrained eye this is not much time. Recognizing our own limitations, and having gotten sound advice from a friend, Joanna and I rented FM radios with commentary on each match in English. It also helped us pronounce the wrestler's names, which made it easier to pick favorites and cheer them on. Having borrowed a pair of binoculars, we could see the matches up close and ring-side despite our nose bleed seats and bird's eye view. This was both a good thing and a bad thing, because through the binoculars you could see everything. And, although we were very impressed by the strength of the wrestlers' big blows, we could not help noticing all the dimply behinds and massive bellies. It was an experience, and we enjoyed the spectacle as much as anything else.

Stayed tuned for week three, day two ..... Black Eyed and VIPeas.

The Best of the Best (Pictures)

2009-09-22T23:25:00.004+09:00

Top Left: Sawa's friend contingent at her birthday party ... Andy's Pub, Roppongi, Tokyo

Top Right: Rebecca and me with Kelly Burton at the Balinese restaurant

Bottom Left: Sawa's picture and autograph at Andy's Pub

Bottom Right: Sawa's friend, Yoshi, singing karaoke at Andy's ... great voice!

The Best of the Best

2009-09-22T22:23:00.010+09:00

Pictures of GanChan Chome (# 5 top memorable moment)

Whoa Tokyo! If only we had enough time in the day to blog about all of our experiences .... since we do need our beauty sleep, I am providing some much needed extra information to keep you completely in the Japanese loop.

Recent Memorable Moments:

(1.) Losing my metro card - I am an idiot. Thank god for Taejo who came rushing down as my knight in shining armor to save the day. He was able to explain the situation (it fell out of my pocket on the train), cancel the lost card, and order a replacement with all the on money on the previous card transferred over. It wasn't the end of the world but I am greatful for computers (I was logged in the system along with the value of my card) and native Japanese speakers.

(2.) Zoo animal charades - We have explained in previous blogs that as foreigners in Japan playing soccer we often feel like zoo animals. We have a captive audience that pokes, prods, examines, analyzes, and watches our every move. So, we found it quite ironic when Rebecca and I were acting out different animals at practice last week. In a effort to try to get our Japanese teammates to understand the English meaning of the word "animal", and therefore, answer the question of whether there was a zoo in Japan we took on the characteristics of our favorite animal friends. Our repertoire, to give some examples, consisted of elephants, monkeys, snakes, crabs, alligators, lions, birds, horses, and giraffes. As we acted out each with unique body motions and noises ( dependant upon the difficulty of the animal) our Japanese friends would laugh and yell out the appropriate Japanese term for the animal. It was a game that provided much entertainment, many laughs, and also many new words! Plus, a lot of creativity on our side .... a giraffe is tough.

(3.) Going Green - We had lunch with Kelly Burton, an eco-fashion guru that runs her own blog (check it out: http://www.magnifeco.com/). Hailing from Canada, Kelly is a good friend of my sister-in-law, and also the wife of one of the drummers for the Blue Man Group (currently touring in Tokyo). Kelly treated us to lunch at a Balinese restaurant and was, of course, in high eco-fashion. After a long and productive conversation we are much more aware of how many "green" aspects Tokyo embraces .. ... to name a few ..... a great public transportation system , elaborate recycling programs, dioxin capturing waste plants, environmentally friendly toilets, new "green space" building laws, and entire communities built upon construction waste (Odaiba beach). Also, thanks to Kelly, we have many more tips on our travels within Tokyo and throughout Japan. A great person to have on our side and we may even get to see the Blue Man Group while we are here. Not too shabby!

(4.) Karaoke - We both knew it was only a matter of time before we had our first experience. Although Rebecca nor I, graced the microphone, we were pleasantly surprised with the singing capabilities of the Japanese (OK, one of the singers had taken lessons but still ...). I promised myself that I would absolutely take the stage and sing my little American heart out before this entire experience is over, and if I am lucky, I hope to drag Becca up with me. So far she adamantly refuses but maybe, just maybe I can convince her (or many many beers can). Feel free to post any recommendations on song titles ..... they will be warmly received.

(5.) GanChan Chome - We had the pleasure of being invited to eat dinner at Eriko Arakawa's (aka GanChan) family restaurant in Narima, Tokyo. Run by her mother, father, and brother, this amazing ramen house has been around for 40 years and is very well known . Sitting in the back, corner booth adorned with Japanese Women's National Team and Beleza posters, we were treated to Japanese delights of gyoza (Japenese dumplings), ramen noodles in one of three bases (miso, soy, or salt), and beef curry (to this day the best food we have eaten in Japan). The tastes were incredible as was the service with her family often coming over to our table (usually with a piping hot, mouth watering dish in hand) to make sure our experience was one to remember. Extremely proud yet extremely humble, GanChans family created the meals by hand, and it was incredible to taste these authentic dishes.

Although her family does not speak English, we were still able to communicate our appreciation through broken Japanese and American gifts (thanks to Dr. Ann). With our bellies full we toured around their neighborhood (referred to as a chome in Japanese) noticing that GanChan was a local celebrity (national one too for that matter). As she pointed out the highlights of the small town, everyone waved to her, old and young, and it came as no surprise that she was an extremely popular part of this town (we then took the pleasure of naming the town after her).

With a personality every bit as large as her hair, GanChan is impossible not to like. Always smiling, she is a constant source of laughs and positivity. With a culture well-known for its reservations and quiet demeanor, GanChan is a refreshing change and now one of our best friends.

Lost in Translation: Top Janglish Quotes

1. "Go to hell" - Taejo's hysterical response to his interpretation of Rebecca and my comment that we would "follow him through the gates of hell". The latter comment was uttered when referring to our trust in Taejo to order for food us at Japanese restaurants.

Two. "Little Lucy likes lollipops" - The alliteration that helped Eriko Arakawa learn how to pronounce the letter "L" in high school.

Three. "Back line correspondence diagonal rear" - The literal interpretation of Beleza's instructional soccer film into English done for our benefit .... yep, didn't really help.

Four. "Sugoi" - The all encompassing Japanese phrase that means great, awesome, wonderful, sweet, cool, neat, good, wow, etc. All depending upon how and when it is said - staccato, bewilderment, etc. - Very useful word to know!

Five. "Maybe OK" - The polite Japanese way of saying "No". Ha.

Additions to the "cauSAWAnnabeher" list:

1. Sawa's birthday party at Andy's pub in Roppongi

- Her picture and autograph were on the wall

- Her friends consisted of two big time lawyers, an ex-professional rugby player (two World Cups with the Japanese National Team) and now a Japanese university rugby coach, a professional singer (married to the ex-professional rugby player), a famous TV broadcaster that is on twice a day, and a professional female snowboarder. Quite the crowd and very good looking!

When in Tokyo.

2009-09-22T18:52:00.007+09:00

Left: Mai and Eriko take me and Jo to a traditional Japanese bath house. Below: Mai and Eriko help me order lunch from the Japanese menu on the vending machine. Left: Eriko and Mai show me and Jo how to use the rental lockers. Do as the Japanese do. That means, when your new Japanese teammates invite you to a Japanese bath house you say, "Mochiron!" Or, "Of course!", Which is exactly what we said. Before coming to Japan we heard about Japanese bath houses, and we read about Japanese bath houses, but nothing really prepared us for the real life bath house experience. What follows below is my best attempt to share this experience with you. However, if you really want to know what a Japanese bath house is like, you 'll have to fly to Japan and go to one yourself. I assure you there is nothing like it, and it is worth experiencing firsthand. Picture a place where you pay money to share bath water with complete strangers. Then imagine yourself spending hour after hour in the bath with these same complete strangers. For a foreigner, it's not so easy to imagine. I will try to help you. First you walk in and ditch your shoes in lockers by the door. Since it's your first time, you didn't think to bring a towel, so you rent one. You are hungry, so you hit the vending machines to buy a meal ticket . You pick out the food you like, put in your money, and out pops your meal ticket. You bring the ticket to the counter, hand it to the lady who enters your order and gives you a buzzer to alert you when your food is ready. You grab a seat at a table because you are not accustomed to sitting cross-legged for an extended period of time and decline the traditional Japanese style tables and cushions on the floor. After you eat you head to the locker room. You rent another locker and stow your clothes inside. It is the last time you will need them until you are ready to leave the bath house. Now you are completely naked. Everyone else around you is completely naked. You are unfamiliar with proper bath etiquette, so you follow your Japanese friends closely, doing everything they do. You walk into the main bathing room. You rinse off in an open shower. You look down uncomfortably because you have always thought of nudity as a private matter. You don't want to embarrass yourself or anyone else, and you are feeling very shy. When you finish showering and it is time to get into the baths, you have no choice but to look around. There are many baths to choose from and people are walking all around you. It is the first time you notice your surroundings. You can see baths in every shape and size. There are women of every age, young women and old women, mothers and grandmothers, teenagers and children. On the other side, you imagine the men are doing the same thing. I don't know if you're doing a good job putting yourself in my shoes, but I have to admit it takes some getting used to. I'm a shy person, and hanging out naked with friends and strangers alike is not something I ever imagined doing. At first I felt awkward and wanted to cover up. Then I felt silly and wanted to laugh. Finally, I forgot I was naked, forgot everyone else was naked, and walked freely from bath to bath. Since I didn't know if I would ever have another chance to go to a Japanese bath house again, I made sure to try every bath the house had to offer, and there were many. I tried tubs of piping hot water, pools of freezing cold water, standing jacuzzi baths with jets on all sides, and seats and beds made from marble slabs where you could sit or lie down as water washed by you. Outside, yes I said outside, there were baths surrounded by trees with rocks for sitting on and waterfalls splashing into the pool around you. Not to mention, there were hot houses and saunas with TVs. You can bathe and bake all you want, and that's just what we did. We spent an hour and an half walking from tub to steam room and back again, relaxing in one setting until we desired another, jumping into the cold tub to cool off after overheating in the steam room or hot tub. We laughed and chatted the whole time, resting our tired muscles, and exchanging information about our native language and culture. It was picturesque and a day I will never forget. I walked out of the bath house that day feeling a little more Japanese. Now that I've had time to reflect, I have to admit it was one of the most interesting and liberating experiences I've ever had, and what was completely normal for my Japanese friends was utterly unique for me. We Americans are such forward thinkers. We enjoy our social, political, and religious freedom. We are excited by the latest fashion trends and the next big thing on the market. I love being American. However, if you get the chance to take a step back in time to experience this age old Japanese tradition, I truly recommend it. There is nothing like a Japanese bath house, and it is worth skipping the latest movie, or putting off downloading the newest big hit from Katy Perry. I hope one day you will have a chance to experience it firsthand.

Surfing in Tokyo

2009-09-22T12:47:00.003+09:00

Out of necessity, today's blog is going to be a reflection of our schedule this past week .... busy, rushed, all over the place, and long. We have done so much in so little time that it is hard to know where to begin. I will follow blog protocol and reflect upon our latest adventure that included a 7:00 am wake up call, our first Tokyo Couchsurfing * Experience, an attempt to see Sumo, a long journey to watch our first Verdy Beleza game, and dinner at a Izakaya in Ryogoku with 13Couchsurfers representing 6 different nations.

So, a lot to cover and once again not much time. The one thing I was absolutely certain of before coming to Japan was that I wanted to see a Sumo wrestling match. Well, I was in luck because there is a large tournament in Tokyo going on right now. The only problem is, I am not the only one who wants to be a spectator. We woke at 7:00 am yesterday to get to the stadium by 8:30 am to meet up with about 15 Couchsurfers to get the tickets for the day. Unfortunately, at this point, the two cheapest tickets were already sold out .... and since we are traveling on a budget, the next steep price was not one we were willing to pay.

Not all was lost, however, and what could have been a major disappointment actually turned out to our benefit. We had planned our Sumo day on a Monday, the typical day off for Beleza, But since it is currently a national holiday in Japan ( respect your elders day ... I love you Mom and Dad, Molly, and Peter), Beleza actually had a game on Monday instead of it's normal Sunday. With the Sumo plans already in place we thought we were going to have to miss the one opportunity to see Beleza play (all of their following games will be away games). With no Sumo, and tickets already secured for the next days matches, Rebecca and I jumped on the opportunity to surprise our fellow teammates and go to the game. It was fate.

We stopped first to grab breakfast and coffee with our newly made friends from all over the world .... France, Canada, Japan, United States, Greece, and Thailand ..... obviously we had plenty to talk about and luckily it was all in English. As this was going on, we began to make mental plans to journey to see Beleza, Mapping out our route, and creating an ETD.

At around 11:30 am we jetted off to the "home" game that started at 1pm. I put "home" in quotes because a home game is anything but, and from what we had heard it would take us a LONG time to get there (our fellow Couchsurfers were up for coming and then bailed once they saw how far it was). Although at times we had our doubts if we would ever make it (and if we did the game could be over), we pushed on with fortitude, letting nothing stand in our way. After asking six nice Japanese travelers desperately for help, about an hour and a half train ride on the Shohan Shinjuku line (one we had never heard of at that time) and a ten minute taxi ride to the stadium, we had reached our destination.

As we stood staring at the intimidating gates, fate was again on our side. We immediately were approached by a friend of our teammate who was sent out with the mission to find the two wandering Americans that were rumored to be coming to the game. With a personal escort we finally arrive, just before halftime, to loud cheers and a score of Good Guys (Beleza) 1 and Bad Guys 0.

As we were met by smiling fans (we even signed a few autographs), excited teammates, and constant stares (we often feel like zoo animals here), we both felt that the long journey was every bit worth it. The loud cheers of Beleza's raucous fans made us immediately envious of the support that surrounds the team. With a legitimate "cheer leader", matching garb, loud body shaking drums, and coordinated cheers, the Beleza fan section is one we would love to take back with us to the States. They can be heard from miles away as positive chants, claps, and songs flow from their music.

Ninety two minutes later and a final score of 2-0 we are greeted by our teammates with open arms. We are thrilled to share in the joy of victory and even more thrilled with the appreciation of our perseverance (to them it was quite impressive that we made it that far). The day deemed a success, we travel back to Tokyo with our tired yet happy teammates in an effort to meet up with the Couchsurfers we left behind.

Prior to our departure for the game, dinner was planned for an Izakaya (an interactive restaurant with a Sumo pit in the middle where Japanese singers perform for the eating audience) immediately next to the Sumo stadium. The reunion with our new eclectic group of friends provided us with a much needed boost of energy. The group consisted of Japan locals, Japan visitors, teachers, nomad travelers, athletes, salary men, students, and more. Over beer, rice, salad, sushi, and numerous other amazing dishes we all ate, drank, and shared stories of past experiences. We spoke about the greatness of Tokyo, the nuances of Japanese culture, and upcoming events we could all enjoy together. We now have friends to visit all over Japan, both North and South that we plan on staying with on our extended travels after our training season. It was an incredible event that once again reinforced my love for Couchsurfing and provided Rebecca her first but not last real taste of this traveling community.

At about 9pm we headed back home to be greeted by Taejo and resigned to our futons not much later. It was a day of victory, on many accounts, and we looked forward to our adventures of the next ........ TO SUMO WE GO !!!!!!!!!

Much, much more to come .......

Scenes for next blog:

1. Top Quotes

2. Memorable Moments

3. Japanese Bathhouses

4. GanChan Chome

5. Guest appearances

6. Additions to cauSAWAnnabeher

*Couchsurfing: An online traveling community similar to facebook that consists of individuals that seek world wide authentic experiences through culture exchange. A website that has legitimately changed my life and provided some of the most memorable moments of my life in several different countries around the world .

Heart of a Champion

2009-09-20T18:16:00.007+09:00

What does Japanese soccer practice look like? It's hard to explain. We do something different every day. We play possession. We play small-sided. We have shooting practice. We do everything we do in the US, yet somehow, it's all different. There are rules, boundaries, restrictions, and multiple ways to score goals. There is something to think about at all times, but one thing there isn't - touch restrictions. It's always unlimited touches, what they call "free". Creative freedom is encouraged and rewarded. Aggressive defense is constant. A player is always under pressure from multiple defenders at the same time. When she can escape the pressure, she is applauded. As a result, rushing with the ball, forced passes, and predictability are rarities. In their own words: craft, out-maneuvering, and explosion are three keys to Japanese style soccer. The players here are also the most industrious and hard working I've ever seen. Standing around and laziness are non-existent. No one takes a day off. This attitude is reflected in the way they train. For instance, practice doesn't officially start until 6:30 pm, but everyone is on the field preparing and warming up by 6:00. Many of the younger players come early to join the youth practice at 5:15, jumping straight into our practice directly afterward. Training sessions are scheduled to end at 8:00 pm, but that has only happened once since I've been here. Even when the coach, Mr. Hoshikawa, blows his whistle and practice is over, it's still not over. Each player has individual goals, and after practice is her time to work on them. Extra training is not mandatory or monitored, but everyone subscribes to it. You will find players working on everything from shooting, passing, and juggling, to fitness, long balls, and any other skill you can think of. Only after each player finishes her individual training does she head to the locker room for a shower and medical treatment. The last player rarely walks off the field before 9:00 pm. It is no wonder Japanese players exhibit such a high level of mastery. Their work is never done. September 18th. Friday was not a typical practice, but it wasn't all that different either. I finally walked off the field around 8:45, and that's only because we were in a rush. Having warmed up at 6:00pm, watched film at 6:30, practiced at 7:15, and scrimmaged at 8:00, we were now rushing to catch the bus, to catch the train, to catch some of Sawa's friends in the international district called Roppongi. Otherwise, we may have been on the field for another half an hour as is customary. Once a week, in the middle of every week, the team starts practice by watching film from the game the week before. The first week, Jo and I sat in on the meeting. The coach doesn't speak much English, so all coaching points were made in Japanese. All written materials and subtitles were in Japanese. Needless to say, we didn't understand much. This week, Mr. Hoshikawa added English subtitles to help us learn what the team was learning. We were very grateful. There was just problem... Japanese doesn't translate directly to English, and the opposite is also true. So, as the film played, and English subtitles flashed across the screen we looked at each other perplexed. It was still like we were reading another language. Words were in the reverse order, verbs coming at the very end of the sentence, confusing in our minds who was taking what action and when. The choice of words was like none I've ever heard used in soccer before. We were still completely lost. Each time the English flashed across the screen we could do nothing but laugh. We were rendered incompetent in our own language. After the film session we went to practice and went back to everything being in Japanese. We were again lost, but it was comforting to be lost in a foreign language and not our own. As is customary on film days, practice ends with a 45 minute scrimmage. The team was divided into an 'A' and 'B' team. The 'A' team, the starting 11 for Beleza, consisted of: Washington Freedom star Homare Sawa, Japanese international Shinobu Ohno (drafted to the Boston Breakers, 2009), five other current Japanese national team players (Kinga, Naga, Asano, Iwashi, Toyoda - mostly nicknames), a few former national team players, and is rounded out by a couple of young national team hopefuls / youth national team standouts. The 'B' team, far younger on average (except for us), included: Jo, myself, two youth team coaches, and FC Gold Pride's Eriko Arakawa (nickname, Gan-Chan, she is just returning from a hamstring injury). We were a hodgepodge team, but proper technique and tactics are ingrained in every Japanese player at a young age, so our performance was almost seamless. This week we beat the super star 'A' team, avenging our loss from the week before thanks to goals from Arakawa and Jo. We were out-played for a lot of the game, but the 2-1 was an accomplishment none-the-less. The mid-week scrimmage is the only time other than game day that the team plays on a full size field. The rest of the week we train in tight spaces, and tight may be an understatement. When we play 9 v. 9 or 10 v. 10, we play on less than half the field. The players are so technical they don't need anymore space. However, the mid-week scrimmage on the big field is special, and something the players look forward to. It is taken very seriously, and Joanna and I can feel its importance. We consider ourselves very lucky to be a part of this training environment, and honored to have escaped with a win this week.

Clockwork Green Continued

2009-09-17T00:18:00.002+09:00

Our journey continued with pictures (in reverse order)

Clockwork Green

2009-09-16T22:56:00.004+09:00

(Pictures in reverse order)

Rebecca and I spent the past two days perfecting our route to practice so precisely that we now have it broken down to the second. I can assure you that this was not a simple task but one that excited two math dorks like us. It was our goal to figure out the fastest, most efficient way to practice and we think we finally have it down like clockwork .... we have become well oiled machines.

The Tokyo train system is intricate, intense, involved, and extremely punctual. I guess with a population of 12 million things have to run smoothly. The system consists of 17 different lines that weave, criss cross, and overlap. They have various labels and colors going to multiple destinations at different speeds. The stations are hard to pronounce as are the names of the lines. One false step and it could cost you big time. Add to this hundreds of people knowing exactly where they are going and why, getting off and on quickly, and vying for the prime seats. DC Metro eat your heart out ..... You gotta love the drama.

This provides a sufficient backdrop (there will be more to add) to the importance of what we have composed below. A step by step process of how we get to practice down to the second. Note: All times in parenthesis are PM.

1. Walk to the elevator (3:39)

2. Take the elevator for 33 floors to B1 (3:39:30)

3. Walk to the Tsukishima metro entrance (3:40)

4. Take 1 escalator down (3:40:15) and follow signs to the Oedo Line.

5. Walk in an L Shape to swipe metro card for Oedo Line (3:40:45)

6. Take 1 escalator down to train (3:41)

7. Get on train to the right headed towards Daimon / Roppongi (3:42)

8. Take the train 11 stops to Shinjuku Station (4:10)

9. Exit train and walk left (4:10:15)

10. Take 1 escalator up and walk left following signs for platform 4 (4:10:30)

11. Take sharp right to go up escalator 2 (4:10:45)

12. Take 2 sharp lefts (4:11)

13. Go down escalator (4:11:10)

14. Walk diagonally and take steps down to platform 4 (4:11:42)

15. Enter Express Green train on left heading towards Hashimoto * (4:12)

16. Take train 7 stops exiting at Keio Inadazutsumi (4:42)

17. Get off train and go to the right following signs for South Exit (4:43)

18. Go down stairs and take sharp right (4:43:15)

19. Go down another stairs (4:43:40)

20. Pass metro card to exit (4:44)

21. Take a sharp right down the alley (4:44:23)

22. Hang left coming out of the alley (4:45)

23. Cross street when permitted by walk signs (4:45:45)

24. Walk to bus station across from 7-11 (note: do not stand at the stop at 7-11 ... that's a different bus) (4:46 - 4:52)

25. Get on bus using metro card (4:52)

26. Ride bus until the last stop (4:52 - 4:57)

27. Exit bus and cross street (4:57:23)

28. Go up steps (4:58)

29. Take first left after steps (4:58:17)

30. Take first right (4:49)

31. Walk up hill (5:00)

32. Take next left into soccer complex entrance. Welcome to Verdy, Nippon Beleza (5:03)

33. Fields are on right, walk to your left to enter club house (5:03:30)

34. Ditch shoes at the door and say Konnichiwa to teammates (5:04:07)

* Step 15 - this is where things can get tricky. If there is any mishap in steps 1-14 causing one to miss the 4:12 Express Green train in Shinjuku that is headed towards Hashimoto a new plan has to be devised. This can be one of many things. There are 5 lines that go in the direction of Hashimoto all with differing speeds.

Trains in order of speed (slowest / most stops to the fastest / least stops):

1. Local train - Grey

2. Semi Express Train - Blue

3. Express Train - Green

4. Super Express Train - Yellow

5. Super Duper Express Train - Red

The green train is the train we have found to be the most convenient and the most efficient. It allows us to stay on the same train without transferring. To give an example of how confusing it can get, if this green train is missed one may have to board the grey local train that stops much more frequently. You would then exit at Sasazuka and wait for a faster train. Or, you could take it to Medamaie and hope that you catch a super express train ... but this super express train would still only make it to Chofu, two stops away from your final destination, therefore causing you to switch trains yet again (and we can't seem to find any schedule for the yellow and pink trains .... they are so mysterious ).

After it is all said and done we have a total trip of:

1 elevator

1 bus

2 trains

4 sets of stairs

5 escalators

and 18 train stops

consisting of a 1 hour, 25 minute, and 7 second journey .... and that is only one way =)

....... Wait until you hear about the ride back (still in the perfecting process).

And this is all done before our two hour practices in another language, in a foreign country, with the best players we have ever seen .... I need my mommy =)

From Monja to the Imperial Palace

2009-09-14T20:53:00.004+09:00

Sept. 13-14 Around 9:00 pm we headed out to explore the streets that looked so inviting from the balcony thirty two stories above. Taejo as our guide, we followed him from the big intersection where we live to a narrow alley a few blocks away. We came to a small shop with sliding glass doors and a handful of tables. In the center of each table was a small hibachi grill. The three of us sat down at a table for four, ordered a Japanese beer, and toasted the occasion, our first time eating monja. Monja is a specialty food in Tsukishima. Our goal being to become real Tokyo-ites we relished the occasion to try this local treat. Taejo, as has become custom, ordered three different things for us to share. Monja, as we soon learned, is a pancake-like batter filled with various combinations of vegetables and meats. It comes uncooked and piled in a bowl of batter with "you be the chef" as an important part of the monja experience. Of course, we left this job to the expert, and Taejo took to the grill. To cook the Monja one must heat up the grill, oil the surface in a circular pattern, and strain the vegetable and meat contents onto the grill, leaving the liquid batter in the bowl. As the solid food cooks it is spread into a circular ring . The batter is later poured into the ring where it cooks on its own briefly. Then the whole thing is mixed together and grilled into one solid "pancake". To eat the monja we used tiny metal spatulas. The proper technique is to press a small amount of the monja into the grill surface, using the spatula to drag it towards you. It continues to cook further as it gets stuck to the spatula. When you lift your spatula up you can eat the monja off the end, and it's delicious! Twice now, when we have eaten local foods, I have had a brief moment where I am reminded of my American roots and just how different cultures and experiences can be. It seems to be Jo's job to call me out. Having a grill in the middle of the table and taking part in cooking the monja adds excitement and authenticity to the experience. It ensures a unique atmosphere, vibrant energy and an enjoyable mood. It also means that there is smoke, and of course, I was sitting down-wind . At first I didn't notice, but as my eyes began to burn, I tried to adjust my position to find a gap in the smoke to spare my eyes the watering. My efforts were futile. Jo happened to notice me squirming, and we were both left laughing, eyes watering, trying not to embarrass ourselves. We want so badly to fit in. To Kokyo and beyond! Today, Taejo left for China, Korea, and Germany, leaving us completely on our own. What did we do with our new independence, responsibility, and power? We went to the Imperial Palace! Kokyo, as it is called, is big, beautiful, and very busy. We are told the Emperor and his family do in fact live there, making it home to the longest unbroken line of monarchs in the world. Since the Palace occupies 280 acres of land, and is surrounded by moats, bridges , imposing gates, and guards, we could not get very close, nor did we have any imperial sightings. But, the Palace's beautifully manicured expanse of lawns located smack in the middle of Tokyo's two main business districts, Marunouchi and Nihombashi, made for a perfect place to study Japanese. We sat on a towel in the middle of "putting green" quality grass, practicing our verbs, sentence structure, and crafting an email to our new Japanese teammates. We want to invite them to Sumo wrestling in Ryogoku, beach volleyball in Odaiba Beach, and dinner at Izakaya. The only problem is ... Nihongo wa hanashimasen! Neither one of us speaks Japanese! Of course, we could always just ask Sawa, but that would be no fun. So, an hour later, we were still flipping through our dictionary, phrase book, and Japanese for Dummies book, and our email had only grown two sentences long. We were hungry from all the hard work. We trolled the streets for a good spot to eat. In our Tokyo tour book we read about a nice restaurant below the train tracks. We searched for twenty minutes, and never found the restaurant. Instead, we found an old man dressed in traditional Japanese garb promoting yakitori and an English menu! We resigned. Skewers of mushrooms, green peppers, eggplant, chicken, and meatballs, beer, water, two stools, a table top resting on crates of empty bottles, a crate to stow our backpack, and trains whizzing by above us, we ate happily and left very satisfied. Our first day on our own in Tokyo was historic, exhausting, and successful! Just the way it should be. I'm off to bed. Oyasuminasai - good night. Additions to the CauSAWA'nnabeher list: 1) At the monja shop, Sawa's picture and autograph adorn the wall. 2) When eating yakitori the couple next to us wanted to know where we were from and why we were in Tokyo. We told them we came to play with Miss Sawa, as she is affectionately called, and they were very impressed. 3) A nice old lady (~ 75) helped us add money to our metro cards. She wanted to know our story. Again, we told her we came to play with Miss Sawa, and she began to squeeze our arms, smiling, and saying, "sugoi, sugoi", a Japanese expression used for, cool, awesome, neat. TO BE CONTINUED ....

Harajuku Girls

2009-09-13T20:11:00.005+09:00

September 13th, 2009

Who needs Nike Town when you have Snoopy Town? I never thought there could be an entire floor of a store dedicated to Charlie Brown's mischievous dog, Snoopy, until of course, I came to Japan ....... and Snoopy does not disappoint. Backpacks, pens, suitcases, pillows, key chains, anything and everything Snoopy all housed in what we call Kiddy Land, by far our most favorite store in Harajuku, the shopping center of Tokyo. Kiddy Land has 6 floors (and a basement), each with its own theme and none of them lack in bedazzle. If you ever want a Hello Kitty day planner or trash can simply visit level 2. Simpson's? That would be level 6. Disney characters including all the Princesses? Level 5. Stickers, stuffed animals, dancing toys, umbrellas, bath toys? Pick any level and go wild. While in Kiddy Land we had the luxury of sampling many of the products, as you will see from the pictures, and we will be sure to bring plenty of them home as souvenires. Don't be surprised if I am wheeling all of our goodies in my new Hello Kitty suitcase. Harajuku is bumpin and so is Shibuya. You could literally shop until you drop at all the brand named stores, people watch for days, and I can personally recommend the pizza from Shakeys restaurant overlooking the strip. There was no soccer today since our team, Beleza, was playing a league match in Chiba. During our shopping adventure we learned that they won 7-1 with Sawa scoring two goals and also having an assist. No surprise, since Sawa has been promoted to be the lone forward in a 4-2-3-1 formation. A change from her defensive midfield role on the Freedom but one that she is embracing and thriving in. As each day passes we have further proof that Sawa is quite the celebrity here in Japan, for good reason (we will continuoulsy add to this list as the journey continues ... it shall be called the "cauSAWAnnabeher" list). We stumbled upon her autobiography while in the soccer club house and also her soccer skills book and Japanese National team book while in the apartment with Taejo. After looking through the pictures (we can't read the Japanese symbols) we feel even more lucky to be here playing with her and her team. Not to mention the young woman we asked for directions while in Shibuya that knew Sawa and her career both with Atlanta in the WUSA and the Freedom in the WPS. She is a big deal. Things I learned today: 1. Japan has amazing bike paths - Although I don't have a bike, I was able to run on these paths all through Tsukishima .... on bridges, over canals, and through the streets .... and not feel as if I was going to be struck by some type of moving vehicle. 2. Baseball diamonds are more like baseball circles - There is not much space in Tokyo and so multiple baseball fields share outfields. This becomes a little more complicated when there are batters from all different sides all hitting into the same outfield .... yet it seems to work. 3. Harajuku Girls do indeed exist - They are every bit as interesting as the name sounds. 4. Hashi means both bridge and chopsticks - Could be the cause of some confusion in restaurants if the syllables are not emphasized properly .... but luckily, the server has yet to bring us a bridge.

5. The Japanese love weiners - YUM!

6. Hello Kitty has a goth twin named Yoshikitty - She's really edgy

7. Happiness is a warm puppy - Who knew? Wow .... my new favorite quote

8. Eating Monja makes your eyes water and clothes smell - Maybe Becca will explain more about this in the next blog after her eyes recover from being blood shot.

Nihongo for Dummies

2009-09-12T20:17:00.007+09:00

Above: Teammates Sudo, Kinga, Becca, Jo, Chi, Iwashi, Shino, Toyoda. Below: Becca walking out of the Japanese train station hub, Shinjuku.

Above: Chi, Jo, Mai riding the train home from practice. Below: Jo and Becca being tourists in Tokyo's Time Square.

Sept. 10-12

Insights

Tokyo is full of new experiences. From making coffee in the morning to figuring out train routes mapped out in characters, from learning Japanese to teaching English, from sleeping on futons on the floor to ordering dinner with a ticket from a vending machine, everything is an adventure. We are still adjusting to the time difference, waking up at all hours of the night, getting hungry at all the wrong times (just when soccer practice is starting), and feeling absolutely exhausted when our ten hour days come to an end . Without reservation or hesitation we are LOVING it!

On Thursday we met Sawa at Shinjuku station. Together we walked to a massive department store to eat lunch at a traditional Japanese restaurant. Upon resting our backpacks on the floor, a waitress hurriedly came over with a laundry bag apparatus to stow them in so they wouldn't get dirty. The service wasn't as impromptu when it was time to order, but it is clear where the Japanese priorities lie.

We are adjusting to the culture. We readily take our shoes off at the door. We eat all kinds of new foods, including, tofu burgers, 7-11 rice bowls and hot dog-shaped potato patties in accompanying bun, pork burgers, Asian pears, "peanut soft" butter with jelly, tofu with cereal puffs, duck curry, udon noodles, pickled radishes, and Japanese soups and teas of all kind. The streets are narrow. Public bathrooms are abundant. Public trash cans are scarce. There is little garbage on the streets, again testimony to the cleanliness of the Japanese people. People wear surgical masks in every day life. The toilets have 18 different buttons and hand sensors to accommodate whatever bodily functions and cleansing preferences you might have.

Soccer

Wow! If you could only see it ... Saturday was a light practice because the team was traveling to Chiba to play a game the following day. After practice we kicked around until the youth team coach invited us to train with her players. Height -wise, these kids came up to our waist. Skill-wise, some were better than us. If it wasn't for our physical presence we would be completely under water. Playing with young kids whose balance, awareness, and composure were so well developed, made us wonder, "what have we been doing all these years?" And, "have we been wasting our time?"

In Japan we are learning that there is another way to train besides endless fitness, and mindless drills. There are better ways to use one's physical gifts. There are moments when balance is more important than speed, control more important than strength, poise more important than snap decisions. They teach you to out-smart, not out-work. Words like out-maneuver and out-fox accompany drills that make you think while you train. Everyone is held to the highest standard. Skill and technique are flawlessly employed .

Yet, none of this is to say that effort here is anything but maximal. We are exhausted. Defensively, they pressure like mad-women when the ball is nearby, tackling at all cost. Offensively, when one player faces forward, 1, 2 , and 3 players fly by to join the attack. They relish 1 v. 1 battles, scoring goals, and keeping possession of the ball. No one is lazy. We have yet to see one player take a "day off" from practice. Everyone is accountable at all times. The kind of training environment created by this attitude and attention to detail is absolutely astounding. Together, we have been playing soccer for decades, and yet, we have NEVER seen anything like it. SUGOI!!!!

Hello Tokyo

2009-09-11T12:48:00.004+09:00

This is the start of something good. Our blog from Tokyo. Konichiwa. Let us recap on our adventure so far. 1. First class flight - The best way to make a 14 hour flight seem like a two hour joy ride .... fly first class. Six course meals, chairs that recline into beds, enough space that you feel as if there is no one else on the plane, slippers, constant service, movies galore, and best of all CHAMPAGNE!!! 2. 32nd Floor Views - This is where we call home now. In the town of Tsukishima in the outskirts of downtown Tokyo we have incredible views. We share a two bedroom apartment with our now good friend Taejo where we both sleep on futons that we roll out everynight and roll back up every morning. 3. Sea Urchin - If you have a sensitive gag reflex you may want to stay away from this fish. If you need any further explanation just ask Rebecca who did an amazing job of swallowing the urchin although her eyes were watering and reflex had already kicked in. 4. Japanese Soccer - The best we have ever seen. The amount of skill and gracefullness these players demonstrate is hard to explain in words. They play fast yet never rush. They are individually creative yet play with a rhythm. They make complicated runs yet are always able to combine with eachother. Amazing. 5. Nihongo wa hanasemasen - I can't speak Japanese but everyday we are learning more and after our first interview with Japanese television we have impressed with our limited abilities. They were stunned by the fact we have only been in the country for 3 days yet can speak bits and pieces of the language. 6. We love Tokyo - More to come.